I'm installing the in cab heater

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 10:58 pm

and two of the connections go to my ignition switch. The only problem is, My off/on military switch was replaced with a keyed ignition switch. Does anyone have any idea what I should attach the two ends to? I have them pointed out by red arrows below.

Post by **wesk** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:47 pm

Do you actually have the following from that illustration?

What type keyed ignition switch do you have?

Off-On
Off-On-Start
Acc-Off-On-Start

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:52 pm

I have all of them.

Post by **wesk** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:54 pm

And what type key switch?????

Post by **wesk** » Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:19 am

What type keyed ignition switch do you have?

Off-On
Off-On-Start
Acc-Off-On-Start
_________________

Also the wire on the back of the key switch that is attached to the B or BAT (battery) terminal I need to know where it goes?

Does your jeep have the 3 circuit breakers on the driver's side of the cowl battery box?

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:26 am

My Jeep is locked up for the weekend at the Jeep shop. I;ll take a look and get you some pictures on Monday. Thanks Wes.

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 7:52 pm

This is the back of the ignition switch. I had very little time today, and didn't get a chance to do much, so I'll have to see where the circuit breakers are, and where the battery wire goes on Wednesday (I work all day tomorrow). The ignition switch only has two outlets, one with a whole group of wires all connected to it. I would guess that is the "hot" side, with current going to it, and the other is a ground. If that's the case, I would think I would attach the heater wire leading from the circuit breaker to the positive on the ignition switch. But if that's the case, I wonder why the heater diagram has two lines going to the ignition?

Post by **wesk** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 10:35 pm

The kit harness has two wires because you use it to interrupt the line running from the original military switch to the circuit breakers or the regulator. On the old military switch there was a Douglas connector on each of the switch's pigtails. You will see in your kit diagram that both of the connectors connect to ignition switch circuit #11. That means you unplug the connector for circuit #11 on the back of the GI switch and connect one of those leads to the #11 wire that goes away from the switch and the other to the pig tail #11 on the switch. This would be the same as slicing into #11 wire,

Now you have a cheap aftermarket civvy on/off only switch. I'll bet my money that switch is not rated for the load it is already carrying. I would suggest you buy a new military switch and then follow the kit instructions instead of continuing with the jury rigging program that's in the dash now. This will save you a lot of grief later. If you are hard set against buying a new military switch then at least buy the best quality on-off-acc switch your auto parts store can sell you.

Hook up using the current two pole switch

Hookup using a new 3 pole civvy switch.

Or you can pick up a new military switch at Saturn surplus. The run $36 plus about $5 for the lever.
http://www.saturnsurplus.com/electrical/switches.htm

Ignition Switch - M38 - M38A1 7355562 5930-00-322-9617 $36.50 Y-14

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 10:59 pm

Thanks Wes! How is this one?
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p301.html

Post by **wesk** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 11:43 pm

Just be careful not to exceed the amp rating! Are you running 24 volt? Need to be positive what circuits are operated thru the keyed switch.

SW-SSK3
3 Position Keyed Switch
On-off-on or ACC-OFF-ON keyed switch with die-cast housing. Two keys provided. Two #8 terminals. 3/4" diameter mounting stem is 3/4" long. Rated for 24 amps at 12 volts, or 10 amps at 24 volts.

If you allow 3 amps for the ignition coil and 2 amps for the gauges you only have 5 amps left . So read the amp draw rating on your heater motor.

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:07 am

Maybe I should install a keyed, hidden, kill switch, and the original military on/off switch? I can't find a good 24 volt keyed ignition switch

Post by **wesk** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 3:00 am

Start looking at truck equipment suppliers for a good key switch.

A second switch only adds another part that can break down the road and give you grief. I firmly believe in the KIS program. Keep It Simple!

A key switch will only keep honest people honest. A short piece of wire with two alligator clips and 3 seconds of my time and I can drive away a keyed switched MV.

If you want to secure the jeep install a short piece of cahin with a pad lock around the steering wheel rim and driver's seat leg.

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 9:15 pm

I'm moving up to Philly, and I figure a keyless ignition will be just too tempting in the rougher parts of town there. I'm a tattoo artist, so it's not like I'll be in the financial district.
Yeah, the ghetto kids might not be able to make it past the floor mounted starter switch, but if they turn it on and it's not working, they might do some vandalism just out of frustration.