A little distributor help please!

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Deadguy
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A little distributor help please!

Post by Deadguy »

Everything was working fine until the engine got pulled. Now, with everything back together, 24.5 volts is going into the distributor, but nothing is coming out. While it was lying in the parts room of the shop, the knucklehead the pulled the engine took the top off the distributor, but it doesn't look like he did anything else to it. He's long gone know, so I can't exactly ask him tho! Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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MODIFIED
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Post by MODIFIED »

Dan,
have you gone through the trouble shooting per the TM Manuals.
You'll need to clarify the symptoms. :roll:

Lets start with how you determined your getting power to the distributor.
Always Looking for M170 Parts and bits ;)
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Deadguy
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Post by Deadguy »

Alright, just got back to the jeep today, it's been locked up in the shop all weekend. My electrical tester reads 26.4 volts going out to the coil, but nothing coming from it. The coil is practically brand new-I bought it from Kaiser-Willys like 6 months ago, but the jeep hasn't been on the road for the last four and a half
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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Deadguy
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Post by Deadguy »

it was the coil. vehicle is running now.
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Often the cheap offshore coils will fail quickly. Original Auto-Lite and Prestolite coils are hard to find.

A word of caution when working on the jeep DO NOT LEAVE THE IGNITION SWITCH ON MORE THEN ONE MINUTE. LONGER WILL FRY THE COIL IF THE POINTS HAPPEN TO BE CLOSED. IF YOU NEED THE MAIN SWITCH ON FOR TROUBLESHOOTING ANYTHING THEN DISCONNECT THE POWER PLUG ON THE DISTRIBUTOR OR PLACE A PIECE OF PLASTIC OR CARDBOARD BETWEEN THE POINT CONTACTS.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Deadguy
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Post by Deadguy »

I know better, that's how I fried more than one coil on my other two jeeps!
And yeah, the ignition coil I put in, is NOS. The shiny chromed out Kaiser-willeys one was crap.
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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