Brake light switch replacement

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Wed Mar 21, 2012 6:48 pm

I've seen on a couple of older posts that people are using civvie brake light switches. Do these last? I'm not particularly wanting to spend $75 for a switch if a $10 will work. I am not building a show Jeep.

Post by **wesk** » Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:07 pm

If you really want reliability and inexpensive get a late model proximity brake switch. The kind that closes it's contacts when the pedal is move away from it. Not the kind that screws into the end of the master cylinder. The kind that mounts on a bracket and presses against the pedal arm.

TomM · Post by **TomM** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 4:37 pm

another reliability modification mod is here abut half way down the page using a chevy pickup switch mounted to the floor cover plate:

lhttp://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=19& ... evy+pickup

The hydraulic switches do go bad. Replacements should be approx. $15. For me the USA manufactured units have proven to last longer than imports.

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 7:24 pm

Good idea - I think I'll try the lever type. Thanks for the ideas.

whydahdvr · Post by **whydahdvr** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:10 pm

How did your brake switch replacement work out? Looks like I'm going down the same path, needing to replace a brake switch in my jeep. The rear tail light isn't on and I was unable to see any obvious signs of wearing or exposed wiring - it's all wrapped up nicely. So.... determined that I have a civvy master cylinder and am thinking that most likely it's the pressure switch there that's shot as I have two tail lights wired on the rear and neither light up.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:35 pm

Check both the pressure switch and the main light switch. The power feed to the brake switch comes through the main light switch and out thru #75, thru the brake switch and back wire #75 again thru the main light switch where it is divied out to the BO stop or service stop as applicable to the switch position.

The simple way to check is to pull one wire off the switch at a time and check it for power. If one is hot like it should be then put that one back on and pull the other one and check for power with the pedal depressed (brake applied).

If neither was hot the problem is at the main switch.

If one was hot but the other pin on the switch did not get power with the brake depressed then the problem is in the switch on the master cylinder.

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:06 am

I pulled both wires off and touched them together and the lights came on. I tried another switch off of my spare chassis and pushed a small screwdriver into the hole - lights didn't come on. Turns out that switch was bad too.

I ended up just buying a $9 switch for a '71 CJ5 at Advance Auto and now they work fine. I might change over to the lever type after I get the Jeep back on the road, as I think it is a good idea.