M38 Power Plant Weight

capescw · Post by **capescw** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 5:56 am

A forum search did not give me the answer, so I'll try here! Can anyone give me the weight of the ENTIRE M38 power plant (engine & transmission / transfer). I don't want to pull down the ceiling on my garage. Thanks, all!

SledDog · Post by **SledDog** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:04 am

I just pulled my engine, tranny and x-fer last weekend. Unfortunately, I sent it off to a mechanic.

kenperkins · Post by **kenperkins** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:56 am

your tm9-1804a states 365# for the dry engine and flywheel.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:57 am

I would recommend renting an engine hoist and A-frame,
especially with the way homes are constructed nowadays.
The weight will be a bit less than the cubic footage of a
solid block of iron, and you can approximate the weight
with the measurements of the assembly (W X H X L) times
the specific gravity of iron, which I don't have right at the
tip of my tongue, but can probably be found on Google.

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:11 am

Here's the "farm boy" method of powerplant removal.

MODIFIED · Post by **MODIFIED** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 2:31 pm

You might want to query net weight of stock power plant for the MB, GPW, CJ2A, and CJ3A in addition to your M38 browsing criteria as they all basically share the same Engine/ Trans/ TC .

jimm · Post by **jimm** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 3:13 pm

kenperkins wrote:your tm9-1804a states 365# for the dry engine and flywheel.

And I would guess another 80-100 lbs for the tranny and transfer together - they felt about the same as lifting a 90# bag of Portland cement. I have mine sitting on the floor right now, all green and purdy and ready to go back in the project vehicle sometime. If you really need a better number, I can hoist them onto a bathroom scale.

But the other half of the equation is, how do you know how much your ceiling can support?

Post by **wesk** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 3:22 pm

The cost of a cherry picker is in the $150 range and has a ton of other uses for you to take advantage of later. Lifting tubs and etc! It also beats the dickens out of pushing the jeep back & forth.

capescw · Post by **capescw** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:12 pm

Gentlemen,

I thank you all for the quick responses! I thought I read the TM, but I definitely missed that entry for weight. It's a new support beam in the garage, triple 2x8's on a 7' span, also well supported, should be OK (but I have a LONG control cable, just in case). I must admit, I really like the 'Farm Boy' approach.

Should you be curious:

http://www.bill-capes.com/insanity/index.html

Thanks again -

Post by **wesk** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:28 pm

You were a wee bit ahead of me. I made A2C in 1967. Very impressive job tackling that project at age 74! My hats off to you. I wish you a quick resto followed by many more years of jeep driving pleasure!

jimm · Post by **jimm** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 6:26 pm

capescw wrote:Gentlemen,

Should you be curious:

http://www.bill-capes.com/insanity/index.html

Nice website! I don't feel quite so bad about the starting condition of our project now.

Boze · Post by **Boze** » Sun Jun 24, 2012 11:01 am

Page 105 of the operations manual states the entire power plant weighs in at 663 lbs. This should include the tranny, t-case, bell housing, engine with all bolt-ons and radiator.

capescw · Post by **capescw** » Sun Jun 24, 2012 8:03 pm

Another manual I thought I read, but missed that part of it! You are absolutely correct, it was also in TM 9-8012, superceding TM 9-804 (thank you, Google).

Hoist combo is rated 800 lbs, but I STILL won't stand under it when I pull the power plant.

Again, thanks to all! 'Lazarus' is now two separate entities, body and frame/power. Still deciding on repair/replace of body. Both floor sections have to be replaced, $$$$$$$

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Sun Jun 24, 2012 9:59 pm

I took a look at your pics from your site and I think I'd go in the direction of repair. While new is nice, replacement bodies can be more of a nightmare then repairing old, and you'll have an original tub still. While bad body panels or rusted out holes can look intimidating, it really isn't that bad looking once you have cut it out or pounded out dents. If you can weld, go for it.
Take a took at my link on my build, it may give you you some insight.
Brett