I am in the process of rebuilding my steering box. I have a couple questions I can't find an answer for. First, I can't figure out how to remove the tube for the horn. There is an adapter the M38 has to screw in the horn switch. It does not seem that there is a way to remove the tube without removing the adapter but it seems to be pressed on??? See the pic below. This jeep came with no electrical system so I will basically be going with a 12 volt system for a CJ3A so I don't think I will need that adapter. Any ideas on how to remove it?
Maybe a better question is, do I need to remove the tube to complete the rebuild? My concern is being able to get the worm gear, cup, and balls back into the box with this tube in the way.
My other area of concern is the oil seal. The two sector shaft bushings look good and there was no play with the shaft. The oil shaft seal actually looks pretty good and there are no tears or cracks in the rubber. Am I correct in that the seal can't be removed/replaced without removing the bushing first? Here is a pic.
The tube and that adapter seal off the bottom of that box together with the switch.
If you have ever undertaken a steering gearbox removal and repair with the vehicle assembled you will be wise to return the box you have to the best possible operating condition. The kit with the gaskets and the seal and the bushings are very cheap insurance. The M38 horn switch will work just fine with a 12 volt CJ3A type horn and wiring. By retaining the military switch, adapter and tube the ability to convert the jeep back to military 24 volt becomes a lot easier.
I have some photos I'll locate and post of the adapter and tube removed.
Just a few things....from your pics that oil seal appears to be in back to front....the lip needs to go toward the fluid,not away.
Also clean up all those visible burrs as they will ruin & cause a newly fitted seal to leak.
New bushes should have groves across the face....the one that is grooved where the groove doesn't go right across goes to the outside of the box with the non groved portion closest to the seal.
John GIBBINS
ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician 2002 USA
Licensed Motor Mechanic NSW # MVIC 49593 Current YOU CAN'T TROUBLESHOOT WHAT YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND
Thanks for the replies. I have ordered the rebuild kit with the bushings and seal. I'm still not sure how to remove the adapter and tube, any thoughts on that? Thanks
If you do not need to remove them then avoid damaging them by leaving them in place. They are pressed in and out. Your 12 volt system and horn will work just fine with them left alone.
Thanks Artificer and Wes for the replies. Wes, I will take your advice and leave them in place. I will also be replacing the bushings, sector shaft, pitman arm, and the little ball bearings. I also have a new drag link, tie rods, etc.
I just read your other post about the bushing problems and then found this one. Like I said, I am planning on doing this rebuild after the rally next month. So, if you can post all of your problems, findings, AND screw ups, it would be most beneficial to all of us. Pics like the ones you have in this post would be great too!
By looking at the seal, I would have to agree with Articifer - most seals have the lip on the inside, BUT, was it dual lipped like Wes said it might be? Was it instaaled from the inside?
So, 32sbct, how did the rebuild go? I am asking is because I am in the process of rebuilding my spare box and would like to hear any suggestions you might have for a successful rebuild.
