I have basically the whole parking brake system installed on my A1. Everything except that rod that runs from the lever with the pads to the handle. Problem is, my WARN Overdrive that comes out of the back of the Spicer 18 Transfer prevents the rod from fitting.
I was thinking about using a jacketed cable to activate the lever. However they dont just make jacketted cable of certain lengths I believe. Was wondering if anyone had a good idea of what kind of cable would fit there. Wes (or any other person that has an A&P / works on airplanes) -- would you have any idear of what kind of cable would fit?
Or does anyone have any other ideas?
Parking Brake
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Parking Brake
Bob Collins
1954 M38A1 MD79056
1954 M38A1 MD79056
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Post a few photos of various views of the interference proble and with several thousand words worth of photos we can quickly figure out a solution.! 

Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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Alrighty. Heres a revitalization of this old subject. Bloody camera went out of batteries, so I minimal photoage.
But here, I'll try to explain. It's fairly simple and straightforward. My problem is finding a jacketed cable or something to do the job. Unlike bolts which are manufactured for basically every application, jacketed cables seem to be special purpose.

Obviously, the tab on the arm is misaligned in this picture. But you get the idea. Notice how nothing straight can get there without hitting the OD.
Took a few measurements. They are:
From approximately where the parking break arm wants to be to the top of the tub where a cable is supposed to go through, its about 12 inches +/- a little bit possibly.
From the bottom of the tub to the actual parking break lever, its about 4.5-5.5 inches depedning on where it's actuated.
I was thinking perhaps we can use some sort of brake lines and run a cable down there as well, but that's not going to be strong enough for repeated use. That'll break reather quickly.
Wes -- you know of perhaps any cables in the aviation world that would have this 12 + 4.5 (or 5.5) lengths? I think the local A&P has some tool where we can put that fork onto the cable, but not 100% sure. Will have to check tommorrow.
Previous owner just had a rather long cable running to the 2 rear brakes. Can't figure out how exactly he had that working, but if nothing else, I guess Ill use that.
But here, I'll try to explain. It's fairly simple and straightforward. My problem is finding a jacketed cable or something to do the job. Unlike bolts which are manufactured for basically every application, jacketed cables seem to be special purpose.

Obviously, the tab on the arm is misaligned in this picture. But you get the idea. Notice how nothing straight can get there without hitting the OD.
Took a few measurements. They are:
From approximately where the parking break arm wants to be to the top of the tub where a cable is supposed to go through, its about 12 inches +/- a little bit possibly.
From the bottom of the tub to the actual parking break lever, its about 4.5-5.5 inches depedning on where it's actuated.
I was thinking perhaps we can use some sort of brake lines and run a cable down there as well, but that's not going to be strong enough for repeated use. That'll break reather quickly.
Wes -- you know of perhaps any cables in the aviation world that would have this 12 + 4.5 (or 5.5) lengths? I think the local A&P has some tool where we can put that fork onto the cable, but not 100% sure. Will have to check tommorrow.
Previous owner just had a rather long cable running to the 2 rear brakes. Can't figure out how exactly he had that working, but if nothing else, I guess Ill use that.
Last edited by Bob_C on Wed May 31, 2006 4:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
Bob Collins
1954 M38A1 MD79056
1954 M38A1 MD79056
- wesk
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Bob,
Aircraft stainless control cable and a guide tube will work just fine. You'll need to use at least 5/32" but 3/16" would be better. See attached drawing on your photo. All the necessary hardware is available at your nearest farm equipment store.

Aircraft stainless control cable and a guide tube will work just fine. You'll need to use at least 5/32" but 3/16" would be better. See attached drawing on your photo. All the necessary hardware is available at your nearest farm equipment store.

Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
Bob,
Why not go to the local hardware store and get a piece of the proper size rod and make a rod with a bend in it to go around the overdrive... if that is what is used...
You could cut any needed threeads, bends or holes fairly easy of you take your time... Match the proper one just add the needed bends...
My 2 cents worth...
Why not go to the local hardware store and get a piece of the proper size rod and make a rod with a bend in it to go around the overdrive... if that is what is used...
You could cut any needed threeads, bends or holes fairly easy of you take your time... Match the proper one just add the needed bends...
My 2 cents worth...
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Because you would quickly pull the heavily bent rod straight and it would start sawing through a gearbox.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php