Transfer case

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:37 am

Okay TM-9 1804b for disassembley. page 75 section e. It says to use a brass drift to drive out countershaft W, how? the case is solid on one end of the shaft... I must be missing something just not sure what.

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:57 am

On the front of the case, the end of the shaft is exposed. It is a taper fit to the case. It will drive out from front to back after you remove the locking plate on the rear of the case.
Maybe you just have too much gunk built up on it to tell.

Have you read this?
http://www.willystech.com/wt/Model18TCa ... rCase.html

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 10:12 am

here is a pic of my back end, I have put it back together for the moment so it takes up a bit less room.

now unless the shaft is larger at this end, in which case it will not drive out anyways this is solid case... I think... Kind of cold today and my garage is unheated so I have to wait for another day to really whap this thing, I did give it a couple good hits before just in case but nothing moved.
Interesting article. Technicaly I really don't have to take this apart much, the gears are rough so need replacing and the case is busted, if I remember right you can't properly weld cast pieces, so its pretty much just practice and fun. What can I say I like grease and taking things apart

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 10:24 am

Thats the front end and thats the end of the shaft. That end is the smaller end, that is why you have to drive it to the rear.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 10:28 am

yeah reading the article you suggested suggests I did not hit it hard enough, I only used my small ball peen, he says he used a 3lb sledge. The shafts on the transmission came out super easy, they were tight but moved with little force, I was thinking this would be similar. I would have stalled soon anyways, need snapring pliers. The exposed ones I can finesse with a screwdriver or two, the one tucked in though...

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 5:08 pm

Well got that shaft out, it was a pig and a half to move, not sure how you could use a brass drift for it you would end up with a brass disk without moving it a bit. Big ball pean hammer and a soft steel drift, lots of smashing and wd40.
now I need a pair of snap ring pliers, I can see it at least.

Cacti_Ken · Post by **Cacti_Ken** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 10:41 pm

I don't know if brass drift punch is softer than soft steel, but I use brass punch to drive the shafts out with.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 8:32 am

Well it is out with no distortion which is the important bit. Went around to get the snap ring pliers, most people look at the snap ring and go " oh you broke it thats a $%#$^" *sigh* broke down and went to the snapon truck. nice pliers though even if they are expensive.

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:19 am

I should invest in a good set of snap ring pliers but I just ground some flats on the outside of a cheap set of needle nose like this. Only bad part of these is the work has to be done with 2 hands to pull the handles apart but it works.