I'm replacing the keyed ignition switch

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Deadguy
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I'm replacing the keyed ignition switch

Post by Deadguy »

with the correct on/off lever instead. I bought a 4 plug Packard connector style switch from John at Midwest Military. Does anyone know which input is for the hot wire from the battery? I take it the rest are accessory and distributor lines? Image
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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Post by wilfreeman »

Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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Deadguy
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Post by Deadguy »

Alright, that one I posted if off google. I didn't realize the difference, until I noticed mine doesn't have letters on the back. So, I don't know what A and C are on mine. Do they both get power from the battery (as in, do I need to split the power)? One goes out to the coil/distributor, do I need to join the rest into one accessory line (I have a heater)?
Image
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Get a decent magnifying glass. The numbers are in the rubber.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Deadguy
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Post by Deadguy »

They aren't. I've looked all over, and even inside the packard connections. I guess I could try it connection by connection with a circuit testor.
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Look at the first photo. It shows that with the switch installed per it's index notch the top of the switch has A&B and the bottom B&C.

Now just follow the guide below.
Image

Remember the military wire numbers are in your TM 9-8012 for the M38 and 9-8014 for the M38A1.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Deadguy
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Post by Deadguy »

So, if A and C are hot leads from the battery, do I need to split the one existing line I have to the current switch into two lines, one for A and one for C? I take it I definitely have to splice the heater line into the dash lights line as well.
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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Bretto
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Post by Bretto »

Yes.
The dash switch is a DPST switch so in other words its 2 on-off switches controlled by one lever. You have to run battery to both A&C
Brett
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Post by wesk »

You are overthinking the project. Just buy the adapter harness.

Image
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Deadguy
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Post by Deadguy »

I can't find the harness from anyone, so I bought the packard connectors I'll need from Saturn Surplus. I have plenty of 24 Volt wire left from my turn signal kit.
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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