Using Civilian Plug Wires

hooligan · Post by **hooligan** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:32 am

with a waterproof distributor (it's a M38A1 CDN2). I've tracked down several posts here related to doing this but they all say to find a set of plug boots that fit the distributor. Does anyone know which set of civilian plug wires would have a boot that fits appropriately?

I have the shielded wires that came on the unit when I acquired it but one is from an M38 and I have no idea how good they are (although they test fine and it runs). I would prefer to just plug and unplug a 20$ set of wires while I'm working on it then possibly buggering up a 200$ set... I can get the proper set after its all running properly...

Post by **wesk** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:16 am

I have always just purchased a roll of plug wire, a handfull of the terminals and brought the cover along to fit a nice fitting set of boots.

The existing shielded set will run just as good as a new handmade set of civvy wires and may run a wee bit better if the civvy wire you buy has that heavy carbon resistor core. Try to find solid wire or spiral wire core plug wire instead of the modern carbon resistor type.

In the old days it was off to buy a roll of Packard 440 wire which had a solid wire core.

The diameter of the wire you choose must be large enough to hold itself in the cap without relying solely on the boot to keep it in there.

So best choice since we do not know what local choices you have is to take the cap to your local car parts store and test fit to insure you get it right the first time.

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 3:50 pm

I read an article somewhere on the net when searching for info on the Pertronix system for the 'a1. It described in detail how to install the ends from the shielded wires (which I happen to have an old set with the rubber off of them) on new wire with rubber boots on them. That way you can use $2 plugs instead of the $9-13 plugs. I also thought of just sticking a civvy dist. in and using the whole system. On the other side of the debate - the only expensive part are the plugs, as the wires and cap rarely go bad since these vehicles aren't driven that much. I know this isn't what you were asking, but it is something else to think about.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:01 pm

Over the last 40 years I have converted several of these shielded ignition systems to conventional plugs and wires. Don't waste your time destroying the expensive (even if used) shielded assemblies. Just use the material I listed above and keep the original cap and enjoy the less expensive wires and plugs. If need be go one more step and add a standard exterior mounted coil and run a new high tension lead to the military distributor. You can use a 12 volt coil with internal resistor and add a ballast resistor on the firewall and leave the jeep 24 volts.

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:20 pm

I just reread your post and caught the "brought the cover along to fit a nice fitting set of boots" part. The coil is the other expensive part of the system that I didn't mention - didn't know you could do the resistor thing and use a 12v one - but I'm not an electrcian either! Thanks Wes!

hooligan · Post by **hooligan** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 5:48 pm

Yes thank for that... I intend to keep the 24v but want to use the civilian wires while I'm putting about... I guess I'll visit a few auto shops and see if I can get them to save me their old wires... I have the spare wire set and J8Cs from my 3B so I will only need the boots...

Warren