Ok. So I was working on my rear axle and was installing the seal that goes behind the wheel bearing inside of the dana 44 axle housing. Well, it is supposed to mate up behind the bearing at a certain point (roughly 1/2 an inche behind the bearing. Well, Mine doesn't even get close to that. I can get it behind the bearing, but no further and nowhere near the mating surface. Should it normally be this hard to get it to mate? I have bent the middle of the seal trying to get it to mate.
I'm going to get two new seals from either MWM, AJP, or Brent Mullins. I was just wondering if there was some "special" way I had to install the seal. My only guess is this is an Omix-ada made seal and we all know how well they fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Seal installation question.
- army_inc
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- Location: West Point, VA
Seal installation question.
Dave
52 M38A1
52 M38A1
- wesk
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You just went thru most of this in your earlier post: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... pic&t=7518
Not sure how you are bending the middle of the seal unless you are not using the correct diameter driver. You clean the end of the axle tube out. You apply a very light film of sealer around the outer edge of the seal and you use a seal driver of the appropriate diameter and you drive the seal in till it stops at narrowing of the axle tube. Lacking a proper set of seal drivers use a large socket that will just barely slip into the end of the axle tube. There is no set distance that the bearing must be from the seal when you install the axle on which the bearing should already be pressed on to it's correct position. That distance varies depending on your use of shims to set free play.

Not sure how you are bending the middle of the seal unless you are not using the correct diameter driver. You clean the end of the axle tube out. You apply a very light film of sealer around the outer edge of the seal and you use a seal driver of the appropriate diameter and you drive the seal in till it stops at narrowing of the axle tube. Lacking a proper set of seal drivers use a large socket that will just barely slip into the end of the axle tube. There is no set distance that the bearing must be from the seal when you install the axle on which the bearing should already be pressed on to it's correct position. That distance varies depending on your use of shims to set free play.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- army_inc
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My main concern was the seal being distorted. I used the largest socket I had and installed the seal. Trying to get it to the narrowing of the axle tub, it bent. It wouldn't go to the narrowing. It is honestly no where near it. I just don't want to install it wrong and find out later that everything inside is messed up because of improper installation.
I just didn't know if there was some "secret" that I was missing to install it correctly.
I just didn't know if there was some "secret" that I was missing to install it correctly.
Dave
52 M38A1
52 M38A1
- wesk
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I've always done what I said above. Drove it in with a proper size seal driver till it stopped and then installed the axle.
If you are bending or distorting the seal you have an improper size or shape driver. The driving load is to be transmitted to the metal outer circumference of the seal only.
If you are bending or distorting the seal you have an improper size or shape driver. The driving load is to be transmitted to the metal outer circumference of the seal only.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- army_inc
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- Location: West Point, VA
- artificer
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- Location: Gold Coast Australia
- jimm
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- Location: Escondido, CA
Good suggestion, John! I've never thought of using those. Like Wes suggested, I've used large sockets. The 3/4" drive sockets in my el cheapo set from Harbor Freight have gotten way more use as seal and bearing drivers than as nut turners.
Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts

