The rear main seal on My M38A1 was leaking

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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Well like Harleys you'll never achieve absolutely ZERO seepage.

Classify the leak:
A-seep but no dripping or puddle overnight.
B-drip but puddle less than diameter of a 50 cent piece overnight.
C-noticeable leak if overnight puddle is greater then a 50 cent piece but smaller than the bottom of your coffee cup.
D-need to fix it leak if overnight puddle is larger than the bottom of your coffee cup.

In my humble opinion A & B are tolerable and not a big deal. C is annoying. D-needs work.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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Deadguy
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Post by Deadguy »

With the gear oil, it was a slow drip (and it is below freezing, so that makes it even slower)/ After I cleaned off the overdrive and drained a little bit of fluid, it's down to a small seep (no drip). With the engine, it's a tiny drip. Like, as in less than the size of a penny, and only if it sits in the same place for awhile. The only thing that worries me, is that the drip from the engine, when I first brought it up, was more like "D" on your chart. A little less engine oil, I cleaned off the clutch with brake fluid, and I made sure the two fording valves were lubricated, and fully open, and the large drip hasn't come back.
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Looks like you resolved the rear seal drip you compared to my D. I can't help with your other leaks since you didn't classify them per my examples. :wink:
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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RICKG
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Post by RICKG »

wesk wrote:50 cent piece overnight.
Thought that went the way of the nickel Co-Cola.
I swear, the girls downtown now.. oops-sorry,
family forum-keep it clean.
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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Deadguy
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Post by Deadguy »

Well, gear oil being heavier, and the volume being less than engine oil, I would say it got up to a B, maybe a C. If it was overfilled, and the excess squeezed out, that might explain why it went down to a B. now I think it's more of an A. I'm mainly just wondering, if all that excess gear oil did damage, if that was really the problem, and if I should be ok now. With the engine oil, it seems to be a constant B now. Even with that new rear main oil seal. I wonder why it was leaking more before, and if I would essentially be pointless to put in yet another rear main seal. They are $14. An engine is quite a bit more!
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Too much gear oil results in foaming and leaks. The foaming may possibly create a tid bit more wear that would maybe be measurable over 100,000 miles or more. Brings to mind an old saying I heard my grand ma tell gramps. "Don't get your bowels in an uproar!" :wink:
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Deadguy
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Post by Deadguy »

Yeah, I worry too much sometimes. The vehicle is running fine, it just leaks. The bigger than normal engine oil and overdrive leaks had me a bit worried.
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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