Starter switch parts/problems

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hooligan
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Starter switch parts/problems

Post by hooligan »

So went out to start the A1 this morning for the Easter morning cruise and it turned over twice and then I got the frying bacon sound. Hurled myself out of the vehicle and got the battery disconnected. Turns out the starter switch welded it self together. The cause appears to be carbon buildup and then "something" happened. Half of one of the side insulators was burned completely away.

Image

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Using Wes's drawing that I had previously DL'ed as I was going to take the switch apart and clean it, just not today... BTW thanks Wes your stuff is hugely helpful... and page 115 of the ORD 9, I have disassembled the switch, cut the welded parts apart, cleaned up all the carbon (apparently this will be a maintenance item), and filed everything back to a semblance of the original shape but the insulators are toast on one side. I need items J & L. I have spent several hours taking apart various old electrical & computer equipment but all the circuit boards are too thick.

Any help locating these insulators or a substitute would be appreciated. Or should I just try and locate a NOS switch somewhere?

Of course I'm going to be doubly, or triply, p***ed if it took the starter or/and the alternator with it. There didn't appear to be anything in the switch to account for the smell or the smoke under the hood...

Did I mention this will be a maintenance item?

Warren
1967 M38A1 CDN2 CFR: 67-07929 Stock and "mostly there"
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lbud60opzbv0 ... Tcsuy7NNGa
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kenperkins
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Post by kenperkins »

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I had the same problem one day and got this material from a computer geek that I believe he said was insulation inside a computer (never looked),don't know what it is exactly, but maybe a computer repair guy in your neck of the woods mite know what the proper name of it is. Its worked for me for a couple of years now.
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

If you go to the Grainger web site and search sheet stock then Phenolic you'll get several choices.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/se ... 4294913517
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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hooligan
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Post by hooligan »

That's great guys. Now that I know what the stuff is I can see if I can locate it locally...

Warren
1967 M38A1 CDN2 CFR: 67-07929 Stock and "mostly there"
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lbud60opzbv0 ... Tcsuy7NNGa
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hooligan
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Post by hooligan »

I was wondering if there is an adjustment procedure for these switches? There is that set screw in the front that looks like it should set the pressure of the plunger against the two contacts.

Warren
1967 M38A1 CDN2 CFR: 67-07929 Stock and "mostly there"
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lbud60opzbv0 ... Tcsuy7NNGa
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

It's all explained in the service manual. The manual is a free PDF download on our web site.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... tit&lid=99
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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hooligan
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Post by hooligan »

I apologize, Wes, if I missed it but pages 180-183 in the 8014 manual discuss installation of the starter, and switch, as a whole and do not appear to discuss the starter switch internals, nor does the 8012 for that matter. There does not seem to be any mention of any adjustment of the set screw on the front of the starter switch.

I assume it sets the contact pressure on the plunger to contact plates/screws but was hoping for some kind of idea on what pressure as perhaps the fact the screw was backed all the way out contributed to the failure of my switch. But perhaps this was an idea that turned out to be of limited use and was backed out by default.

Thanx
Warren
1967 M38A1 CDN2 CFR: 67-07929 Stock and "mostly there"
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lbud60opzbv0 ... Tcsuy7NNGa
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