How tough a Fix?

joebuck · Post by **joebuck** » Mon Jan 20, 2014 1:42 pm

my front right wheel is squeaking....thinking its the bearings on my 1952 M 38 going out. How tough a project is this for a novice? should i buy new bearings or re pack old ones? any advice would be appreciated thanks

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Mon Jan 20, 2014 2:29 pm

First Step: Check out the manuals on this site. Second
Step: Read them again. Third Step: Read any advice your
post generates. Fourth Step: Enjoy!

Jim in Darkest Arkansas

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Mon Jan 20, 2014 3:57 pm

Squeak could be a number of things. I would take the load off the wheel and give it a spin and see if you can do any pinpointing and see if it still squeaks. A bent backing plate could be scraping the drum. Pull the wheel, drum, check the brakes and that assembly. If that's ok then dig in deeper. Bearings could be dry. If they are, they may need to be replaced from wear. Its not a hard job and you just might learn by doing it but if your in doubt of your ability, you can try to find a shop to help you out. The manuals are on this site in the download section to help you out along with all of us.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:00 pm

Some simple steps listed in the correct order are:

1-Obtain the technical manuals and parts manuals for your jeep.

2-Review the TM's troubleshooting guide where it discusses the symptoms you have.

3-Then start investigating the troubleshooting guide's suggestions.

Note: Decisions on part replacement should be based on an examination of the parts condition first. For determining what condition your bearings are in use google to search for the topic "wheel bearing inspection criteria"

Here's a couple of good choices form a google search:

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/h ... rings.html

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/h ... rings.html

These help sites are great for beginners but always remember when the tips on the help site disagree with your service manual you must follow your service manual!

joebuck · Post by **joebuck** » Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:24 pm

thanks Guys... i am lined out now.....will do my homework first before i turn a wrench

artificer · Post by **artificer** » Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:21 pm

First you need to know exactly how to determine what the problem really is.

There is one very easy way to check your wheel bearings [they usually don't squeak or squeal, brake shoes to drum do], after you have absorbed all the other earlier sources provided.

Jack up the offending wheel/s so as to be off the ground, spin & listen for the noise.

Grasp the wheel top & bottom & rock in & out.
Is there much movement?
Now have someone apply the brakes hard & do the same thing while they are applied.
Is the movement reduced or eliminated?

That reduction or elimination is related to wheel bearing adjustment & indicates a need for inspection/servicing.

If the movement has not altered or is only reduced that can indicate swivel pin [king pin] bearings need attention.

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jan 21, 2014 12:30 am

John brings up an interesting point in his signature element.

YOU CAN'T TROUBLESHOOT WHAT YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND

It is obvious you are not a professional auto mechanic. Since wheel bearing symptom identification is a very basic function for a professional mechanic, many professional mechanics often overlook the hobbyist's lack of experience in this area. So I would suggest that several good books on the basics of automotive maintenance and troubleshooting should also be obtained and kept on your shelf. There are dozens to pick from. An easy one to locate is the Army TM9-8000 Automotive Principles. Try to obtain a copy issued before say 1980.

Another good book geared to the hobbyist is Moses Ludel's 1946-1971 Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual.

Now as to the squeaking which is not usually common to a wheel bearing needing adjustment it is often common to a wheel bearing in very bad condition. Really loose and/or worn bearings will allow the brake drum to wobble which can then generate squeaking since the shoes and back plates are mounted directly to the axle housing or knuckle housing and cannot move with the drum.