engine stand rotisserie

buzzk · Post by **buzzk** » Sat Feb 22, 2014 1:48 pm

any out there make a engine stand rotisserie for the jeep tub and has plans I here it pretty simple buzz

DJ · Post by DJ » Sat Feb 22, 2014 10:09 pm

Do a search for rotisserie, there is a couple of nice ones there.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Feb 22, 2014 11:19 pm

Buzz,

You should explore the member's photo albums here on our web site.

Here's a few of Ryan's which is album # 1:

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Sun Feb 23, 2014 8:09 am

Not mobile, but here's mine hung from the garage beam. Make sure it's up to task though if you were to go this route.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 46-444.jpg

buzzk · Post by **buzzk** » Sun Feb 23, 2014 12:21 pm

I'm not to computer savy still learning my way around the site thx buzz

pickle · Post by **pickle** » Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:11 pm

I am planning to build one this summer, but looking at the photos and it still raises the question for me about replacing the front and back floor pans. I understand the idea behind the rotisseire, and about bracing the tub to prevent warping. My question is that I have a tub with rotten front and back floors. I am thinking of replacing the floor with new fronts and an existing back one that I have from another donor tub. my question is how do replace those knowing that the rotisserie cannot be bolted to that. I am inclined to support at the front and back parts of the tub (with bracing in place), flip it upside down, and put in together with that way. I know the frame would be great, but I do not have the space for that on the rotisserie. Thoughts?

Also, one other question I had is what kind of ceiling height does one need with a rotisserie like Ryan's. Would 8.5 feet cut it?

thanks.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Feb 24, 2014 11:08 pm

Pickle,
The tub is 62" wide. In Ryan's photos the top of the tub is less than 7 feet above the ground. His garage door is 7 foot. If you build yours just like Ryan's using that two rail support system with the same two end rails and the sliding boxes for the longitudinal rails to socket in you will be just fine. The standard procedure is to do one floor at a time. You use steel 2" angle on top and run one from each of the windshield latch holes in the dash to the top of the rear tub rail. Then run two diagonal braces from the upper of the two angles to the leg of each engine stand and the tub will be rigid enough to remove and replace one floor at time.

pickle · Post by **pickle** » Tue Feb 25, 2014 11:38 pm

Thanks Wes helping me see the door size, and for the advice on the bracing. I like Ryan's rotisserie, but it is pretty pricey for materials. What is the danger of attaching the rottisiere to the front and back of the tub if the bracing is in place? shouldn't the tub be strong enough?

Post by **wesk** » Tue Feb 25, 2014 11:49 pm

The front of the tub at the toe board gussets would be fine. The rear of the tub without a tailgate is a problem. It will sag a bit in the center with the floor removed. I would install a piece of 1" steel square stock between the tailgate chain tabs. Then if the rear valance is not rusty you can bolt the rear stand to the valance.

pickle · Post by **pickle** » Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:18 pm

Thanks again Wes. Good point about the valance. I am going to check that first, maybe put two brace pieces across the taigat to keep it square I'f the valance needs to be replaced. I know my gussets are fine, and using them would bring the centre of the jeep closer to the swivel and make easier to spin, I am thinking. At 62 inches wide, I assume that the length of swivel to bottom of rotisere would have to be at least 37 inches to allow tub to spin freely?

rgmutchler · Post by **rgmutchler** » Sun Mar 02, 2014 8:19 am

There are pictures of my rotisserie in my photo album on page 9. I had extensive floor repair, in fact I had to disassemble a large part of the body to replace the firewall/front floor board and the rear floor and both front lower cowls. Consequently to be able to hold and realign everything I used my frame as a jig mounted on the rotisserie. Then with the use of measurements taken prior to disassembly I was able to reassemble the body on the frame.
I don't think I have $100 in the rotisserie but it has been worth every cent.

BullRun · Post by **BullRun** » Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:11 pm

For my current project it is all about what I will call registration. Registration means that everything lines up correctly.

For me the best way to keep registration is to keep the tub attached to the frame as part of the bodywork. This way all repair work can be refitted exactly to the place it was removed. Having the frame there provides perfect alignment. But this of course is your call. It really depends on what needs to be done.

On my tub the rear floor pan was wavy, the front floor boards and gas tank well were rusted out and all removable panels needed replaced. Major bodywork!

I liked having the frame there as it provides a secure point of contact for the rotisserie and hold the body in registration while everything is taken apart.

Think of the rotisserie as a giant welders jig. It is really just a device so you don't have to work out of position like welding upside down etc.

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 2:21 pm

Fix the floor before mounting onto a rotissorie.

I cut out the old floors, fit new ones in, used sheet metal screws to put them in place, then used the frame (after checking for square) as a jig. Once I was happy that the top would fit properly and the tub onto the frame, I welded the panels into place.

If you put the tub on a rotissorie and then cut the floors out, you may get a sag in the middle.

The front floor extends up also making the firewall up to the cowl.

The bare tub by itself is not that heavy - neither is a 1967 Mustang Fastback - see my project X photo file on the last page of my photo album.