I was driving my jeep this morning and while driving the engine simply turned off and would not start again. After a few trouble shooting checks, I concluded I have an electrical problem. I am getting current to the distributor, but not to the plugs. So I'm pretty sure there is a distributor issue. How can I test to discern whether the issue is due to a faulty coil or condenser. A new coil is ~$60 whereas a new condenser is only $10. The cap, rotor and points all look fine.
Thanks,
Dan
Distributor issue
- DFoley
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Distributor issue
Dan
1951 M38
1951 M38
- wesk
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Point type ignitions have always had this troubleshooting issue. Condensers are cheaper to substitute a new one than purchase a condenser/capacitor tester.
On the other hand the age old troubleshooting sequence for point type ignitions has never changed and doesn't need any fancy analyzers.
There are adequate troubleshooting charts in both the TM 9-8012 (M38) and TM 9-8014 (M38A1/M170).
8012 start on page 72, Par 77 and you will quickly wind up at 77b(6) which sends you to Par 81a. You have already ascertained 24 volts available at the coil but you have not confirmed that current draw with the ignition switch on is normal. If you have a stock 24 volt electrical system the amp meter will show a slight discharge when you turn the ignition switch on. This will confirm current draw through the radio noise filter, the coil to the points. This would move you on to PAR 81b.
8014 starts you out on page 79 Par 81b(5) which then sends you to Par 84 on page 84.
In either case you can see that most of the troubleshooting can be done without test equipment. However anyone who wants to get his hands dirty on their jeep should always possess a digital VOM and a 24 volt test lamp.
Also review my photo album sub-album on Ignition Systems: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
On the other hand the age old troubleshooting sequence for point type ignitions has never changed and doesn't need any fancy analyzers.
There are adequate troubleshooting charts in both the TM 9-8012 (M38) and TM 9-8014 (M38A1/M170).
8012 start on page 72, Par 77 and you will quickly wind up at 77b(6) which sends you to Par 81a. You have already ascertained 24 volts available at the coil but you have not confirmed that current draw with the ignition switch on is normal. If you have a stock 24 volt electrical system the amp meter will show a slight discharge when you turn the ignition switch on. This will confirm current draw through the radio noise filter, the coil to the points. This would move you on to PAR 81b.
8014 starts you out on page 79 Par 81b(5) which then sends you to Par 84 on page 84.
In either case you can see that most of the troubleshooting can be done without test equipment. However anyone who wants to get his hands dirty on their jeep should always possess a digital VOM and a 24 volt test lamp.
Also review my photo album sub-album on Ignition Systems: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- WESTCOMVIC
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- Location: Victoria, B.C. Canada
Motor just stopped
You may have confirmed an electrical problem by now, but have a look at the FUEL situation.I spent a long while trying to figure out my M38A1s same problem. Seemed like the ignition was just shut off...no splutter or? Turned out to be a stuck float and it choked on the excess gas. Worth a look.
- DFoley
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