Distributor shaft not turning anymore!

Andysm38 · Post by **Andysm38** » Sun May 11, 2014 8:03 pm

Thanks Wes. I will ask about warranty, but doubt it comes with any.

This one looks good too though, I think:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-M38 ... 76&vxp=mtr

Andysm38 · Post by **Andysm38** » Sun May 11, 2014 8:14 pm

One more question:

What are your thoughts with regards to the camshaft? Definitely pull it and inspect it?

Post by **wesk** » Sun May 11, 2014 9:17 pm

You should be able to inspect the cam's pump drive gear through the oil pump opening. Why pull it out?

Andysm38 · Post by **Andysm38** » Mon May 12, 2014 5:09 pm

Well since the engine is still sitting in the Jeep it was very challenging to inspect the cam gear and I didn't trust what I was feeling with the tip of my finger, so.....now I know why smart phones were really invented - take a look:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1106058457 ... directlink

I think the gear is ok. What do you think? I turned the engine by hand several times in between pictures.

Post by **wesk** » Mon May 12, 2014 6:36 pm

The tooth structure looks undamaged but is the brownish/yellow areas crud in the lube or rust on the sides of the teeth? Try a little bit of spray brake cleaner on those visible teeth and if they remain unchanged in appearance then get a couple of aluminum bristle tooth brushes that will fit up the hole and brush the brownish/yellow ares and see if a shiney tooth shows up.

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Tue May 13, 2014 8:03 am

wesk wrote: get a couple of aluminum bristle tooth brushes that will fit up the hole

I will often employ my rifle/pistol bore cleaning kit in times like these.
The assortment of brush sizes and the rod and handle set-up have served
me well in tight spaces.

Andysm38 · Post by **Andysm38** » Tue May 13, 2014 8:12 pm

I didn't have much brake cleaner left in the can, but I think you can see the improvement. However - if you zoom in on this particular photo, I think you can see a bit of damage to at least one of the teeth:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6 ... directlink

I will do a compression test soon to see what that will show.

Andy

Post by **wesk** » Tue May 13, 2014 10:05 pm

Looks like it is time to pull the cam as well. Running a new oil pump gear against a damaged cam gear is asking for the inevitable to raid your wallet again. I see quite a bit of corrosion and pitting on that cam follower as well and I bet the other 7 look about the same.

Andysm38 · Post by **Andysm38** » Wed May 14, 2014 6:27 am

Ok!
At this point I wonder if I should consider a complete rebuild of the engine or finding a replacement. As posted earlier all of the engineer numbers are gone by the water pump. Is there any other way of determining whether or not this is the original engine or a replacement?
This would make a difference in my decision making process.
Thanks,
Andy

Post by **wesk** » Wed May 14, 2014 7:32 am

No. Other make & models have the nicety of what is called matching serial numbers for chassis and engines. The WWII Ford GPW's have that nicety. Willys does not. Willys made no attempt to match engine serials to chassis serials. Therefore there is absolutely, with any doubt, NO WAY to ever confirm any L134 was original from Willys to any M38. The most positive identification of the chassis any L134 was manufactured for is the serial number on the flat above the water pump. Even then there's no guarantee that engine was originally installed in any Willys chassis since Willys shipped MCXXXXX engines to the military under contract that the military used in power units and compressor rigs.

Buying another engine with no warranty may very well bring you right to this decision point again. Any L134 block with a casting number of 641087 or 804380 can be dressed up to be an M38 engine. Anyone familiar with Willys M jeeps will be well aware of all these ID issues and will not be swayed either direction by what you say to explain the lack of a serial number.

Bottom line is pulling one of these engines out of an M38 takes an hour. Re-installing it takes an hour and a half. Rebuilding the engine by doing the tear down and assembly yourself , hiring a machine shop for the machine work, buying a new cam, rings and O/S pistons if needed can be done for under $800.

Or you could buy another used engine, install it. Try to get her running. Endure all the grief you just went through all over again just to end up right at this same decision point again.

Andysm38 · Post by **Andysm38** » Fri May 23, 2014 6:37 pm

Ok. Since this has turned into much more than just a distributor that stopped turning, I will continue this lovely adventure under my project thread!! About to post pics with head off and valve cover off. Brace yourself!!