M38A1 clutch replacement advice please

pockers · Post by **pockers** » Sun Nov 16, 2014 4:13 pm

Hi
I think my clutch needs replacing - the "bite point" is about 1 inch from neutral (i.e I only have to depress the clutch 1 inch for drive to disengage)
Question is
What parts do I need to replace ? Clutch plate etc
What seals etc will need replacing ? ( parts to buy list)
Is this an engine out job? If so any tips? & or other maintainence worth doing when out

Many thanks

Post by **wesk** » Sun Nov 16, 2014 6:23 pm

A lot of unknowns that will keep us from offering sound advice.

1-How long have you owned the jeep?

2-What parts of the jeep have you repaired or overhauled before?

3-Have you performed a health & welfare check on the engine and drivetrain? All the necessary checks and inspections to determine overall condition of the jeep's engine and drivetrain.

4-Do you have a vehicle lift?

5-Do you have an engine hoist?

6-Do you have a transmission jack?

On a more general note it always helps to include your location and real first name in your profile and signature block. A lot of us prefer a more friendly communication instead of relying on the CB radio type handles we call usernames. Posting your location will help folk near you realize how close you are and offer hands on help!

pockers · Post by **pockers** » Mon Nov 17, 2014 8:10 am

1 owned for 7years
2 previous - body work/welding, rediator, carb, points, condenser, wiring loom
3 no health check
4 veh lift - i might have limited access to one
5 yes to engine hoist
6 no to trans jack

with thanks
Andy
Surrey, UK

buzzk · Post by **buzzk** » Mon Nov 17, 2014 2:02 pm

I think it would be easier to pull the motor, think about it, no draining of the cooling system, no messing w drive shafts, clutch linkage, almost everything can be done from top buzzz

Post by **wesk** » Mon Nov 17, 2014 5:49 pm

The reason we need to know the answers to 2 & 3 are to save you grief later on.

Now that we know that during your 7 years the engine, tranny and transfer have not been overhauled or repaired.

Now if you will proceed with the health check we can be of much more help to you.

As mentioned above if I need to install a clutch on a willys jeep I pull the engine period with a cherry picker and change the clutch. BUT if after my health check I have low compressions, or leaking head gasket, or tranny that whines too much or jumps out of 2nd gear often or a whining transfer then I pull the whole powerplant package radiator all the way back to the transfer and take care of all the issues with just the one major removal exercise!

pockers · Post by **pockers** » Tue Nov 25, 2014 4:19 pm

Hi
Does that negate removing the floor panels?

Also could you advise me what a health check should consist off?

Many thanks

Post by **wesk** » Tue Nov 25, 2014 10:28 pm

1 - Road test to determine engine & drive train performance quality. IE does the jeep start quickly? Does the jeep idle smoothly? Does the jeep accelerate smoothly without any hesitation? Does the jeep emit blue or black smoke at any time from the tailpipe? Does the tranny upshift smoothly without any grinding or resistance to shifter movement? Does the tranny downshift smoothly without any resistance to shifter movement? Does the tranny pop out of gear at any time? Does the transfer case shift smoothly without resistance to shifter movement? Do all four transfer functions function? Does the tranny or transfer whine excessively?

2 - Remove and inspect spark plugs after the road test. Are they black and sooty, tan, oil soaked and so on?

3 - While engine is still warm do a compression check and if called for by poor compression checks a leak down test.

Now you will have a good idea just how much work needs to be done to your jeep and you can plan accordingly.

pockers · Post by **pockers** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:15 am

Thanks Wes

i will give it a try, most of it i can answer as good
ie no jumping from gear, no blue/black smoke

it does stick a bit 2nd to 3rd

will check compressions

Post by **wesk** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:37 am

When you say "stick a bit" do you mean difficult to go into gear or difficult to move from that gear?

pockers · Post by **pockers** » Thu Dec 04, 2014 3:53 am

yeah exaclty that, doesnt always like 2nd to 3rd but usually resolved with double de clutching

Post by **wesk** » Thu Dec 04, 2014 9:26 am

That's usually a bad synchronizer 2-3 in the tranny.

pockers · Post by **pockers** » Mon Dec 08, 2014 3:20 am

Ok

Any idea what thread size size the compression tester needs to be

Gotta by a new one you see but need to check it'll fit

(Mm if possible)

Thanks

Andy

Post by **wesk** » Mon Dec 08, 2014 12:28 pm