brake work

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:11 am

Is it possible to do just the front brakes from the master cylinder forward and plug off the hole in the banjo fitting at the master cylinder to the rear temporarily?

I realize this will only give me front brakes but that would be more than I have at present and only ranch road driving for now.

I'm concerned about hitting a brick wall pulling the rear drums and would like to get something done so it is moveable rather than having a dead jeep until everything is done.

Thanks,
Brian

DanS · Post by **DanS** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:25 am

Ill advised. The brakes on these jeeps are marginal, even when fully functional. Yea, I know, just ranch driving, but, things can go wrong anywhere! My two cents.

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:37 am

DanS wrote:Ill advised.

Yep!! Your location says it all.. Texas HILL Country. There's not a flat spot
on my farm here in So ID. Rolling hills.. I want fully functional brakes.
Having "some" brakes may encourage someone other than yourself to
"take'er for a spin" w/disasterous results.

A grizzled old mechanic Wesk

once told me:
"Do not put it halfway together. All the way or none at all lest you forget and someone dies."

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:48 am

Well,
Understand all that is said, but right now she's sitting under an oak tree and I'd like the ability to move her under power for test driving on the driveway/road, and into and out of the garage.

Pushing a dead jeep up and down the driveway is beyond my ability.

Brian

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:52 am

4x4M38 wrote:Is it possible to do just the front brakes from the master cylinder forward and plug off the hole in the banjo fitting at the master cylinder to the rear temporarily?

The unvarnished answer to this question is yes.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 9:00 am

Thanks Rick.

I appreciate the responses and caution. Believe me, I don't want anything bad to happen any more than someone else, but need to be able to at least move it around.

I'll take a look first and see if removing the rear drums will be without issues. If so, I'll do them all.

Thanks,
Brian

Post by **wesk** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 10:15 am

If you just need to move it for better working position in the shop then the parking brake should handle it.

The rear drums will take a special puller to bust them loose if they were properly installed originally.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 1:00 pm

Hi Wes,
The parking brake only has one shoe actuating for some reason. It is next in the pattern for R&R.

I was reading the manual last night and again this morning. The rear drum shows removing the hub cap, cotter pin, and axle nut, then the three flush bolts, then remove the drum.

I have seen several references to pulling the drum/hub as one assembly.

I am hoping that won't be necessary.

Can you clarify?
Thanks,
Brian

Post by **wesk** » Wed Dec 10, 2014 9:42 pm

Those three flush screws are a piece of work too. You'll need a large slotted or phillips bit that completely fills the slot or cross and an Impact Hand Driver to break them loose. If you are successful in removing the three flat head screws then you won't need the hub puller.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 7:46 am

Good morning Wes.

Yes, that was what I had read. Are the front screws just as bad about getting out?

Thanks,
Brian

Post by **wesk** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:55 am

It all depends on who installed them last, how tight they were installed, if any thread locker or lubricant was used and how long they have been undisturbed. Also the long term effects of corrosion can often render the indents in their head for the driver bits useless and soft.

RickC · Post by **RickC** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:42 am

You can do a brake job on the rear without removing the hub. I did it on mine. It is a little awkward getting around the flange but you can do it

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