Rear differential holes

jimm · Post by **jimm** » Wed Feb 11, 2015 7:01 pm

There is another thread repair product that we use at work that is a little friendlier than Heli-Coils because it doesn't require the special Heli-Coil tap. It's called Keensert http://www.afscamloc.net/prod3.php?lang=en. You drill and tap the hole with the next larger standard tap, thread in the Keensert, then drive in the locking keys. They sell installation tools that make it easy, but you can do it without them. McMaster-Carr sells them, including a Mil-Spec version if you want to be 100% appropriate

They list them as "Key-Locking Inserts for Metals". A 5/16-18 insert sells for $1.62 each, or 7 inserts plus installation tool for $20.82. The Heli-Coil inserts are cheaper each, but the tools cost more.

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Sat Feb 14, 2015 10:02 pm

I took the yoke off the rear diff. today with the intention of putting a new seal in. Once I got the yoke off the seal there looks pretty good. What's everyone think, should I pull the old seal so I can look at the bearing in there and put the new seal in?

Post by **wesk** » Sat Feb 14, 2015 11:12 pm

Is there a ring/groove worn in the yoke's shiney shaft where that seal lip rides?

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Sun Feb 15, 2015 9:23 am

Yes, there is a groove.

ChuckW · Post by **ChuckW** » Sun Feb 15, 2015 11:23 am

Speedi-sleeve time!

Post by **wesk** » Sun Feb 15, 2015 11:29 am

It's much harder these days to get undersized seals. The most common fixes in order of ascending cost with the highest cost being the guaranteed fix and the lowest cost is only a 50/50 chance of success.

1-Install a new seal short or longer so it's lip does not ride in the groove.

2-Install a redi-seal kit that sleeves the yoke's shaft with a very thin sleeve.

3-Install a new seal and a new yoke.

Just a reminder, you should apply a very tin coat of sealant to the splines before installing the yoke.

The torque on that yoke nut is 200-220 Ft Lbs which is necessary to insure proper preload on the bearing and positioning of the pinion relative to the ring gear. There is a special tool for holding the yoke while you torque the nut. You should review the chassis & running gear TM and I also have the civvy manual axle chapters in my photo album. These explain a lot more than the TM.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

ChuckW · Post by **ChuckW** » Sun Feb 15, 2015 11:38 am

Wes, I'm sure you know the old trick of "tightening the garter spring" on lip seals? Was standard practice years ago on Cat water pump seals!

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Sun Feb 15, 2015 12:27 pm

Couple questions. Does the bearing on the other side of the seal need to be packed?

When you say sealant on the splines, what kind of sealant would you use?

No matter which option I choose, a new seal should probably be put in don't you think?

Post by **wesk** » Sun Feb 15, 2015 2:01 pm

Yes. Tightening the spring on a new seal can work occasionally but a lot depends on the depth of the groove. It becomes a game of horse shoes and hand grenades and I feel that is really a waste of time and money when there is a fix we know will work and get the job done in one shot instead of two or three.

The most common sealant used is RTV. But any quality assembly sealant meant for use around petroleum products will work.

Before you consider removing those bearings please read the manual I provided you a link to!

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 9:28 am

Left yoke is from the back and right yoke is from the front. It appears both are the same in all measurements. The only difference I can see is the rear one has a large plate that attaches and the front has a small banged up rim near the base.
It appears the front yoke has a different part number than the rear yoke. Has anyone ordered these before, and if so what is the difference between them?
I'm going to head over to the parts store today to see what the cost is to sleeve them both. If it is close to the $45 most places want for replacement yokes, i'm going to go with new instead of sleeves...

Post by **wesk** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 9:34 am

the rear yoke gets lot more dirt thrown at it.

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 9:48 am

Aaron before you buy new let me check my parts stash-I may have a pair of serviceable units.

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 3:19 pm

RICKG wrote:Aaron before you buy new let me check my parts stash-I may have a pair of serviceable units.

That would be great.

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Wed Feb 18, 2015 3:21 pm

Aaron, i've got the rear transfer case yoke only-sorry. It is however in ready to install condition-no groove, no kidding. Shipping would eat some $$ as it wont go small flat rate box. Heck if you were any closer I'd swing by your place after work and fit it (the adult beverage is on you of course).

PM me if you want to take it any further.. I'll shoot a couple of pics this evening..

Did you have any joy at the machine shop concerning sleeves??

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Wed Feb 18, 2015 4:03 pm

Rick,

Sounds good. I sent you a PM. Heck, i'm only about 900 miles away from you. You'd probably want to drive something other than your jeep though! Our low tonight will be -12 with -23 wind chill.

I haven't been to the machine shop yet as was waiting to hear back from you first. I did look online, and the sleeves I would need run about $20-30 each plus shipping. They are not cheap!