M38 Rear Hubs not coming off!
- Tembek
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M38 Rear Hubs not coming off!
Have a heavy duty hub puller from Kaiser and so far I've only managed to bend the hub and the puller. Anyone have any ideas? The axle nuts came off ok, and things don't really look that corroded.
Jim
Jim
-
aforests
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Post some pictures of your hub puller setup.
Could try heating it up once you have some tension on the puller then give it a wack with a heavy hammer.
Also, make sure you have retracted the brake shoes so the drum isn't hanging up on them.
Could try heating it up once you have some tension on the puller then give it a wack with a heavy hammer.
Also, make sure you have retracted the brake shoes so the drum isn't hanging up on them.
Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)
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1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)
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- Tembek
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- wesk
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This is the way to get the hub off:

Here's a good video:
http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Too ... uller.html
If she still is stubborn I get her under a lot of tension and spray the end of the axle/keyway with penetrant and let her sit a day then I come back and whack the tip of the screw shaft with the hammer arm still attached.
By the way do not take the axle nut all the way off. Just back it away from the hib about 4 threads. Otherwise when it launches across the room it hits you in the shin first then slams into the door on your new car!

Here's a good video:
http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Too ... uller.html
If she still is stubborn I get her under a lot of tension and spray the end of the axle/keyway with penetrant and let her sit a day then I come back and whack the tip of the screw shaft with the hammer arm still attached.
By the way do not take the axle nut all the way off. Just back it away from the hib about 4 threads. Otherwise when it launches across the room it hits you in the shin first then slams into the door on your new car!
Wes K
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45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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- oilleaker1
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- Tembek
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Thanks. I don't have that model but the one I have is strong enough to bend the hub. I've tried heat, penetrating oil, and letting it sit overnight. And of course the whack on the end. Both my rear hubs haven't shifted. I do have the axle nut partly on - a very good idea.
I wonder if I can pull the whole assembly with the axle and then have it pressed out?
Jim
I wonder if I can pull the whole assembly with the axle and then have it pressed out?
Jim
- Xamon
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I really really strongly suggest getting that puller, I had a different one to start and it was drilling a hole in the axle without moving the hub, I got one of these pullers put it on hand tight, 3 hits with the mallet to tighten it and the hub just popped right off.
Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
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- RICKG
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- Tembek
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- wesk
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If your current puller is a jaw type puller then that is the cause of the bending. These hubs were designed to only be pulled from the lug studs. Bent hubs are generally junk. Using them after trying to straighten them by eyeball doesn't usually end up well.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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- Tembek
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- wesk
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No it is not true. With the drums off you can pull the bolts out of the axle bearing retainer cover and pull the whole mess, hub, back plate, bearing retainer and axle out and take that axle/hub assembly to the maching shop to press the axle out of the hub and the bearing off the axle as well. Try to keep track of your bearing shims.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- jimm
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Or, buy a hydraulic press and save the trip to the shopwesk wrote:... take that axle/hub assembly to the machine shop to press the axle out of the hub and the bearing off the axle as well.
Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts
- Tembek
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Ok, finally got the hubs off. Bought the OTC puller. It's very high quality. But in the end I had to cut the hubs off with an angle grinder. Surprisingly there was no rust on the tapered joint and even some lube remaining. However there was also some kind of hard deposit, like a resin or something. We had tried heat, icing the shaft, penetrating oil. leaving the puller tension on for days, hammering, and using the puller until the flange of the hubs started to yield. The axles look great and are straight.
I am still in awe of how much force the tapered joints resisted.
I like the idea about loosening the axle nuts and driving around for while first to try to break the joint free. Will try that next time.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
Jim
I am still in awe of how much force the tapered joints resisted.
I like the idea about loosening the axle nuts and driving around for while first to try to break the joint free. Will try that next time.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
Jim
