m38a1 valves not fitting

[sgtkish]

Valves m38a1

I can't find any exhaust valves for my f134 ,and I have already bought 2 sets from people that say they should fit. The taper on my old valves are not even close to these new ones I'm finding. The new ones are more of a step down to the lock groves. Where mine is just sloped all the way down to the lock groves. My locks don't even fit inside the new valve groves, and the newer ones are longer valves all together. Does anyone know where I can find these allusive valves? Another question , I had the block face milled and I believe it was .10 but not sure if he went .20 . I'll have to ask, but should I get a thicker gasket or shim, and is there even such a thing for this engine or will I be fine? Thanks

[wesk]

Hello kish,

I moved your post here where it will get a better chance of getting a reply.

The M Series Parts Supply & Service Review is for folks that have a product and want to offer it to the board with a review of your success or not with it and to give others a place to reply with their experience with that specific part. It is also a place to discuss the quality of vendor service.

In the case here you are having difficulty matching the correct valve with the correct application. This is actually a technical difficulty begging a technical reply.

If you carefully research the part you will find that early exhaust valves were as your existing valve. Later exhaust valves had a different rotator cap which are the valves the vendor sent you. You must use either valve with it's original supplied spring buildup including the retainers and spring seats and caps. Look carefully at page 47 of the M38A1 Parts Manual ORD 9 SNL G-758. The early valve used on the L134 and the M38A1 up thru engine serial 97653 PN 7375035 and the late valve used on subsequent serial engines 8329517. use the retainers, caps & etc that match your valve part number.

The decking of the block shouldn't require any shimming of the head gasket. But you should measure clearances to be sure.

[sgtkish]

Hello kish,

I moved your post here where it will get a better chance of getting a reply.

The M Series Parts Supply & Service Review is for folks that have a product and want to offer it to the board with a review of your success or not with it and to give others a place to reply with their experience with that specific part. It is also a place to discuss the quality of vendor service.

In the case here you are having difficulty matching the correct valve with the correct application. This is actually a technical difficulty begging a technical reply.

If you carefully research the part you will find that early exhaust valves were as your existing valve. Later exhaust valves had a different rotator cap which are the valves the vendor sent you. You must use either valve with it's original supplied spring buildup including the retainers and spring seats and caps. Look carefully at page 47 of the M38A1 Parts Manual ORD 9 SNL G-758. The early valve used on the L134 and the M38A1 up thru engine serial 97653 PN 7375035 and the late valve used on subsequent serial engines 8329517. use the retainers, caps & etc that match your valve part number.

The decking of the block shouldn't require any shimming of the head gasket. But you should measure clearances to be sure.

........Thanks for moving me in a better line of fire. I'm still trying to figure the site out.
I talked with a guy that owns the shop where I had the block bored, milled, and installed hardened valves seats and guides. He didn't have any experience with the f134, but he said I should be able to buy extended valves so I don't have to use the caps from the old valves. Not sure about that situatation ,or if its a good idea or not. When I got the engine it was all in one piece. So I know its not mixed up between a L134 block, and an f134 head. You scared me a little thinking about that one..lol.

There was something weird going on with the head I noticed though. There were about 30 deep punch marks in the head on top of one of the cylinders. The piston also had the same punches on one half of the top, and that side of the top was just eaten up bad. Large chunks burned away. Thought I would throw that in there .

I will try to send pics once I figure out how, but I am currently failing at how to do that as well. Is there some company out there you know of that sells these early type valves?[/img]

[wesk]

All you need to do is shop the jeep and regular auto parts vendors for exhaust valve for L134. I had several instant hits. Here's 4WD Hardware:
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Engine-Performa ... ROJ0637183



Early valve $11.00 each.


Late valve

[G740]

Midwest Military has the valves, retainers and keepers to convert the old rotator style to the non-rotator style in stock.
John

[4x4M38]

Wow. It sounds like something fell into the cylinder between
the head and piston, or maybe a "chunk" of piston came loose
and got sandwiched in there.

Any rod damage?

[wesk]

If you found no chunks when you pulled the head they likely exited through the exhaust valve. I am surprised you didn't find a shattered valve seat, or a broken ring, or a broken ring land and spark plug damage. That would indicate someone already found the issue and remove the evidence before you got the engine.