need help IDing a year

Zach · Post by **Zach** » Sun Jul 02, 2017 6:21 pm

hello,
Im new to the group, i am currently deployed [/img] but am setting up buying a M38 the issue is he doesn't know the year. I know its a M38 not a 38a1 because of the flat fenders, so it makes it a 50 to 52. the S/N was rusted off and the previous owner has a new CA S/N put on it. it seems to be original except the previous guy to the one I'm buying it from put a new engine, its not the flat head its the next model. is there somewhere else i can look or some other way to tell exactly what year its from? again thanks for the add to the site and look forward to anyone's help. I cant figure out how to add pics but here is the link https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/cto/6146772263.html

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Sun Jul 02, 2017 8:13 pm

Hey Zach,
That's quite a mess but it is an M38, and there's a
lot of meat left to work on.

It looks like all but one of the dash plates are still on
the dash, under the grab handle. First hint
Are they all screwed to a separate sheet which is
fastened to the dash or are they all separately
screwed to the dash? Also, one should have
an MC number and a year on it.

Take care,

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Sun Jul 02, 2017 8:20 pm

If those are dash plates on there do not use anything abrasive to clean
them with. Much of the stamped info was done lightly and if the lettering
is worn it can all disappear with a little sandpaper. Use brake fluid and
soak them overnight minimum. Use nothing stiffer than a toothbrush to
scrub them. Repeat if necessary.

Looks like an M38 windshield frame somebody put a hinged vent into.
That and seat frames are a huge find if in good shape.

Zach · Post by **Zach** » Sun Jul 02, 2017 10:00 pm

i will try cleaning whats there but from what the seller said the old plate was completely rusted off and replaced by this new one issued by CA DMV with a new number.

another question what are your thoughts on 24 volt sys, i want to make it OD green and be a mil jeep so im thinking keep it 24 volt. what are peoples thoughts on doing this or converting to 12 volt?

thanks

Post by **wesk** » Sun Jul 02, 2017 10:56 pm

Hello Zach. I opened your photo album.

Here's your album:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

Here's the rules:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... opic&t=498

Here's the tutorial for loading your album:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

Here's the tutorial for posting your photos:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... pic&t=8670

Here are a few of my observations:

Larger file size for easier reading: http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... ited_1.jpg

There are many bits & pieces missing.

Here in the midwest that price is a bit steep.

The M38's left Willys with only three Willys serial numbers:
1 - On the lower right dash plate.
2 - Behind the driver's seat on the front end of the right rear wheel house on the Patent plate.
3 - The engine serial on the front of the block just above the water pump.

On occasion you will find a jeep that went thru a full military rebuild and often the hood number or the serial number would be stamped by the shop on the left front frame rail.

skyjeep50 · Post by **skyjeep50** » Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:43 am

Having started a couple M38 "projects" myself I can offer that if you want to rebuild/restore that jeep to something near original military appearance, be prepared for a lot of work, time and money expended. You describe the jeep as "original" but there isn't much that is. The vehicle looks to have a decent body and I hope the frame and suspension haven't been changed much other than the axle lift. What's the condition of the transmission, drive shafts and axles? You can probably assume that you'll be rebuilding them as well as finding a new L-134 engine. Then comes finding a carburetor, air filter, starter, generator, voltage regulator, exhaust system, probably a new brake system and electrical system, tires, wheels and all the other bits and pieces. Bodywork, painting, appropriate top and seat covers - it all takes time and money. This can be a very fun and educational project - you will be a skilled M38 mechanic when it's done. Just make sure you're ready for the time commitment. Otherwise, I think the often repeated suggestion applies - buy the best and most complete starter jeep you can afford to start your project - the finish line will come faster and at less overall expense.

rgmutchler · Post by **rgmutchler** » Mon Jul 03, 2017 4:53 pm

Zach,
Wes and Skyjeep make some good points. That jeep, while initially a M38 has been modified quite a bit and with out a complete in person inspection it is hard to see what has been changed and how well it was done. A lot of us have started with much more original M38 and still had a lot of time and expense to get them right. Of course that might be something that you are into but you can probably buy a much better example of one for not much more and then rebuild one that doesn't have to be reconstructed. M38's in pretty good, almost restored shape are available for 8 to 10 grand. The MVPA supply line ads have some pretty frequently.
Not trying to get too far into your business, just offering another view about the expense and effort required to bring back an altered vehicle.

Zach · Post by **Zach** » Tue Jul 04, 2017 8:21 am

Thank you all for the responses, I look forward to much more advice. I know it’s going to be a lot of work and I plan to completely take it apart and clean/paint and reassemble. I am going to put a lot of time into it and honestly can’t put a realistic timeline on it. It is missing some stuff but for the price compared to some more complete I think it’s worth it. I may regret it later or have a different opinion but I look forward to the project. I thank you for pointing out missing stuff and some of the items you identified are actually in the jeep (back seat area) like the jerry can and radiator. It has all three seat frames. The rims/tires are wrong and hopefully over time I can get a good deal or trade? The lift is a spring over axle so that can be put back. Again thank you all and I look forward to working with you as I move forward.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Tue Jul 04, 2017 9:03 am

Zach,
You are looking for this plate on the dash under
that grab handle:

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... mber+plate

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jul 04, 2017 10:45 am

Zach, I can see that the plate Brian has referred to again is clearly missing from your dash. I would not waste time looking for it there.

Look on the front of the right rear wheel house for the patent plate.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Wed Jul 05, 2017 6:30 am

Didn't the very early M38s have the plates directly on the dash before they started putting the hole behind them? I seem to remember reading that somewhere.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Wed Jul 05, 2017 6:59 am

Yes, that's why I asked.

Post by **wesk** » Wed Jul 05, 2017 10:25 am

Yes and Zach's M38 tub is an early tub with holes drilled in his dash for the plates as evidenced since his first post by his dash photo.

Brian, You posted this:

Zach,
You are looking for this plate on the dash under
that grab handle:

That said nothing other than fro him to go look at his dash again when there was obviously no need based on his own photos because only the empty holes are there.

Skip44 · Post by **Skip44** » Wed Jul 05, 2017 6:46 pm

Is there/where is a list of M38 S/N? I bought another M38 and the plate was on the passenger fender well. MC 71823 the seller gave the VIN as 132363W

Skip

Post by **wesk** » Wed Jul 05, 2017 9:12 pm

Skip44, Not sure exactly what you are asking but MC71823 is a June 1952 M38.

Xamon, Yes, from MC10001 thru MC34151 (Sep 51) had their dash plates individually screwed directly to the dash. After this group they were first riveted to a large plate & then the plate was screwed to the dash. However the ags were still in exactly the same arrangement and spacing so they appear in the same exact spots on the dash.