Driving slow, real slow.....

Post by **wesk** » Tue Sep 09, 2014 9:40 pm

Early jeep locking hubs fit early jeeps with the 10 spline axle shaft. They are also divided between those designed to be used with the front axle shaft that had threads at the end (WWII and very early 2A) and those that fit un-threaded axle shafts. Very few locking hubs fit the threaded shafts.

baios · Post by **baios** » Thu Sep 11, 2014 12:16 am

one friend of mine told me that is not a good idea to put locking hubs!!!!I ask him why? and told me that all the power and torgue will go to the rear axles and i will have problems such as broken driveshafts!!!!!! is that correct????

Post by **wesk** » Thu Sep 11, 2014 7:25 am

That's is not correct with stock 4 cylinder jeeps. The danger of applying too much torque to the rear axle occurs when we cheat the system and remove the pin in the D18 transfer case that prevents engaging 4WD low when in 2WD. Of course many folks have done just that (removed the interlock pin) and those that operate their jeep conservatively do not have broken axle issues.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Thu Sep 18, 2014 12:56 pm

logically that makes no sense to me. In 2WD all the power and torque is already only going to the rear, which is a beefier dana 44 as opposed to the smaller dana 25 in the front. Broken drive shafts in some vehicles happen because they have no slip built in so they must be "unwound" if driving on hard surfaces. I could be off just my thoughts though.

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Thu Sep 18, 2014 3:43 pm

Baios, maybe your friend was implying that if you have selectable hubs and you forget to lock them. Then yes, all the power to the drive train would go to the rear. But with the hubs locked, it engages the front axle to pull the front.

Wes, what's your stance on the argument that selectable hubs adds wear to the pilot bushing between the front and rear outputs at the transfer case. I can see the point that without the front drive shaft spinning, then that bushing is always seeing action.

baios · Post by **baios** » Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:26 pm

will that fit to my m38?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/15001-01-Manual ... 1108578699

Post by **wesk** » Thu Mar 02, 2017 1:19 pm

Old post with two old unanswered questions:

logically that makes no sense to me. In 2WD all the power and torque is already only going to the rear, which is a beefier dana 44 as opposed to the smaller dana 25 in the front.

The topic concerns applying too much torque to the rear axle alone when in 4WD LOW In 2WD High we have less torque applied to the rear axle then we would in 4WD low with the front axle disconnected so it cannot split the available torque.

what's your stance on the argument that selectable hubs adds wear to the pilot bushing between the front and rear outputs at the transfer case.

I have not worn one out that I can blame on locking hubs.

One new question:

will that fit to my m38?

I am not familiar with that brand but the civilian equivalent of your M38 is a 1950-52 CJ3A and that model is not in the list of approved models for that auction item. If you use their model search function as I did it will not fit a CJ3A.

Another point is you must be aware of what axles you have in the front of your M38. If you have earlier CJ2A or MB/GPW front axle with threaded ends then you must use a hub designed for those 1941 thru 1946 hubs. If you have the correct front axles for your M38 then you must use a hub compatible with a 1950-52 M38 or a 1950-1952 CJ3A.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Thu Sep 14, 2017 7:07 pm

Ok.
I'm really not that dense but I thought I understood this thing.

Got my transfer back together and testing the levers and gears.

Do you only have two wheel high and four wheel low?

For some reason I had it in my mi d that you could do two wheel low.

But I can't get this thing to shift to get there.

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:03 pm

Brian,
I have to ask. Can't help myself. Is this a test?

I think it's 2 wheel high, and 4 wheel high or low. Nothing else.

Did I pass?

Don't ask me which paragraph in the Operator's TM says that because I can't find it.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:40 pm

It's definitely a test for me Ron!!!!

I've read and re-read the shifting the transfer paragraphs of the
operations manual and have finally come to that conclusion.

I understood the lockout pin was necessary but had 2wd and 4WD mixed
up in my head. Thanks for confirming for me.

Now that I've got that straight I see in the manual that 60 mph
is max in high. Who wants to stay in that thing at 60 mph
in four wheel drive????

Thanks again for clearing that up Ron. At this point it might appear
I've managed to put both the tranny and transfer back together
correctly. Now to see if they will get along with one another.

Take care,

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:53 pm

I don't think mine would handle that many RPM's for very long --- and ain't going to try!

Caution in order though, I did have a LARGE bowl of beans and rice for supper so I'm due for a brain fart any minute now.

cabinfever · Post by **cabinfever** » Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:30 am

For what it's worth, I only unlock my hubs when I am in parade mode. That is, when I have my M38A1 in low range, 4WD.

The rest of the time, I keep my hubs locked.

keats · Post by **keats** » Wed May 08, 2019 6:31 pm

I know this is an old thread but have a question about cleary flanges.

I have a set that are NOS. They are a complete assembly with a spacer as an additional part for using the flanges on a mb/gpw.

my question, do i need to take the flange bearing out to grease it? Does it need grease?

regular bearing grease?

I can't find any literature on what is needed to install the flanges other than just bolt them on.

Post by **wesk** » Wed May 08, 2019 10:19 pm

Gary,

There is nothing else that needs to be done that I know of. Any lubrication remains on it's original schedule. I would guess since the spline shaft is regularly greased and is free to rotate in the Clary hubs then there should be no reason to try to lube the sealed ball bearings. I've always heard them referred to as Clary Hubs.

Here's a short blurp on them from the G503 by Joel:

Clary Hubs
Joel Gopan
http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=197044
ORDNANCE STOCK NO. G-740-8327042 times two will get you a set of two. They are simple to install and require the reuse of your old WO-800798 Hub Cap. There are two types pictured, the larger Clary Flange is for the M-37. Note the A-868 Drive Flange that you will have to remove. This particular one is from one of the last new CJ-5 Jeeps we sold, the drive flanges were removed to install Warn Hubs. The small ring next to the hubcap is a spacer to be used when installing the flanges on the MB/GPW. The ends of the Outer Axle Shafts rest inside shielded ball bearings, the flanges are cast aluminum.

CLARY FLANGES were manufactured under Gov't Contract DA-04-200-ORD-448 by the CAM TOOL CO. Oakland CA. What is unique is tht the M-38/M-38A1 Flanges and the M-37 Flanges I have were manufactured under the same contract and were both packaged during 11/55.
ORD PART NO FOR M-38/M-38A1 is G-740-8327042
ORD PART NO. FOR THE M-37/WC is G-741-8327043

If you do install a set of these critters, be sure to pack your original drive flanges in your Jeep Storage compartment. I can't think of a better use for these GI Issue flanges than to take them along on the ALCAN trip, they might make a bit of difference due to the great distance traveled.
Note the Script "F" on the NOS O.D. Hub Cap, these were plentiful back 30 or so years ago when the wholesalers had a "Glut" of them.

Should you have a set of Clary hubs that do not have sealed ball bearings then I would mak sure they are lubed.