mdainsd's M38 project

Post by **wesk** » Sat Oct 28, 2017 10:10 pm

The M38 ORD 9's 50 & 55 list 5 horn variations.

I believe the two listed in the 1950 ORD 9 are both early round back type. One each for Spartan & Autolite.

Early Horn has rounded back.

Early Horn has rounded back.

ORD # 7351412, WO # 802893, Sparton # D2140A

ORD # 7728341. WO # 802893, AL # HX4004UT, Sparton # D2140A

Late horn has flat back

Late Horn

Edited to answer questions on indexing

Due to the early horn's dombed rear case the terminals angle outward and rearward. The late horn's flat back case points the terminals straight outward causing them to protrude further out than the early horn forcing the opposite indexing.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Oct 28, 2017 11:08 pm

If you buy Tim's delco generator try and locate a matching Delco regulator instead of one of the Autolites.

Delco

Auto-Lite

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Sun Oct 29, 2017 6:56 am

I'm still interested in the radiator guard.

Obviously for the M series headlights. And the recessed blackout lights.

But the holes for the frame mounts AND the center mount bracket....

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Sun Oct 29, 2017 8:57 am

Thanks for the heads up on the regulator.

No joy with finding one last night. Friend had four distributors all 4006's

Got a gen to regulator cable, needs to be rebuilt. Another carb for parts, the missing ammeter and the two front blackout marker lights with the flying lead with Douglas connector on the end.

The grille is fun. With its P/N date of 1949 (if I am remembering correctly) and its ability to go civvy or military, I would think an argument could be made that it was for Pre-production vehicles? It could be used on CJ3A chassis as easily as an M38 chassis. I'd love to see another one.

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Sun Oct 29, 2017 9:02 am

you will love this if you haven't already seen it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNSoMjTJ4qY

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Sun Oct 29, 2017 9:38 am

Off to Camp Lockett for the day to work on one of my other time-sinks, Dodge M615 export ambulance. Hope to hear the engine fire for the first time!

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Sun Oct 29, 2017 9:47 am

Wes, thank you for clearing up the horn numbers for me. I'll put the one I got on as a place holder. Who knows how long it will take to fine the early one, I don't believe I have ever seen a horn like that.

Here is some more pics of the odd ball grille.

Front:

Part number tag remnants:

Mounting tab center bottom:

And the bulge:

radtech · Post by **radtech** » Wed Nov 01, 2017 6:51 pm

I think the body may be an early manufacture replacement body without the holes for the data plates that someone bought surplus and put it on an early CJ frame.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Wed Nov 01, 2017 7:26 pm

Would Willys make a replacement tub with the mounts fir
the radio filter?

I think I can see ghosts of screw holes in the dash where
the plates go.

Post by **wesk** » Wed Nov 01, 2017 9:22 pm

If you find a NOS willys tub with the raised firewall areas for the ignition filter then on it's ID sticker would be the tub PN and the contract #. Each of the contracts let for the delivery of the M38's usually included a certain # of support spares including tubs, fenders and grills.

So yes it is quite possible a tub used with filter equipped M38's was also available during that same period in the Army's logistics system and later been released to surplus.

M38 Production Contracts
W-20-089-ORD-4758 1950/51
DA-20-018-ORD-9196. 3/1951
DA-20-089-ORD-4601FS 6/1951
DA-33-019-ORD.-43 10/1951
DA-33-019-ORD-494 4/1952
DA-33-019-ORD-630 5/1952

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Sun Nov 05, 2017 1:27 pm

Some trinkets are starting to show up. The early starter is here. Very clean but Im going to go through it any way. generator, same deal. Located a carb locally.

Off to sort through a pile of regulators this afternoon. Ive got plenty of 24V headlights, but would love to find a pair of the plastic ones. I for one, have never seen these.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Sat Dec 09, 2017 10:28 am

Frame?

https://m.ebay.com/itm/M38-Jeep-Frame-W ... SwUMxaJ1wG

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Sat Dec 09, 2017 11:31 am

Thanks for the heads up.

Thats not a bad price, but shipping makes it expensive. That and it needs some of the same things welded back into it that I could put on the CJ frame.

Now that I have two M38s the patina one is going to be just that an unrestored body on a Brand new CJ chassis. For what I want to use it for it doesn't matter, and if it offends someone, too bad.

The yellow one will be M38 through and through.

But then again I have a friend in Indiana coming this way in two weeks, and his truck has enough room for that frame.....

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Sat Dec 09, 2017 11:34 am

And down the rabbit hole you go!!!!

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Fri Dec 22, 2017 1:26 pm

wesk wrote:The M38 ORD 9's 50 & 55 list 5 horn variations.

I believe the two listed in the 1950 ORD 9 are both early round back type. One each for Spartan & Autolite.

Early Horn has rounded back.

Early Horn has rounded back.

ORD # 7351412, WO # 802893, Sparton # D2140A

ORD # 7728341. WO # 802893, AL # HX4004UT, Sparton # D2140A

Late horn has flat back

Late Horn

Edited to answer questions on indexing

Due to the early horn's dombed rear case the terminals angle outward and rearward. The late horn's flat back case points the terminals straight outward causing them to protrude further out than the early horn forcing the opposite indexing.

I went to setting the orientation on the early Spartan horn to make it as shown in the manual page. It was brand new in the box and it was "clocked" just like the one shown in Ryan's book on page 86. So, someone at Willys must have been reclocking these things for installation I guess.

Here is something to know: you "can" re-clock these just by loosening the big nut on the back, and turning the rear cover to the new position. I didn't realize this until I fully disassembled mine from the front. But it turns out is was a stoke of luck that I did it that way. Because when I fully opened mine, I found the NOS insulation on the lead wires had failed and had fallen off of the two leads. if I had just twisted the rear to a new position, chances are I would have had a shorted out mess.