Hey all... I came across a 52 M38 that I'm quickly learning is a jumble of m38 and CJ parts. It has what I believe is a 65 Ford straight 6.
it's been running like a champ the last 2 weeks. tonight it only runs when I'm cranking it. it has throttle response too. (distributor has spark, fuel flowing in carb) as soon as I release the key to "RUN". it dies.
The electrical looks like a mix of new and old parts/pieces.
this is what I've found.... the "I" terminal on the solenoid is HOT when cranking, but not when in the run position. am I right to assume it should be hot since the wire runs straight to the coil? or is it only hot during cranking?
all the posts on the ignition switch (key) seem HOT when appropriate.
any ideas? I hate to start replacing parts, but a new switch and solenoid aren't a big deal ( but #@$%@ hard to find on the 4th of JULY.. was hoping to cruise her a bit around town tomorrow)
thanks so much!!!!!
New to the group and already having problems - electrical
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JLO
- Member
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mdainsd
- Jeep Enthusiast
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No where enough information to make useful suggestions.
But from the little bit you describe...
The "I" terminal you mention supplies 12V straight to the coil bypassing the ballast resistor, when cranking.
First, put a jumper across the ballast resistor and see if the problem goes away. If it does the ballast resistor has failed.
if it doesn't, turn the key to on and check for voltage on the side of the ballast resistor NOT hooked to the coil.
Report back.
But from the little bit you describe...
The "I" terminal you mention supplies 12V straight to the coil bypassing the ballast resistor, when cranking.
First, put a jumper across the ballast resistor and see if the problem goes away. If it does the ballast resistor has failed.
if it doesn't, turn the key to on and check for voltage on the side of the ballast resistor NOT hooked to the coil.
Report back.
'52 Dodge M37, '42 GPW, '48 FrankenJeep CJ2A/M38, '50 CJV-35(U), '51 M38, '42 WC-57 Command Car, '44 WC-51 Weapons , (2) M1941 Sperry 60" Anti-Aircraft Searchlights, John Deere M-gator, '44 White M3A1 Scout Car
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4x4M38
- Jeep Legend
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- Location: Texas Hill Country
The starter solenoid wire from the ignition switch should only be hot
when you turn the switch to start. Otherwise the starter would run all
the time. The wire from the switch to the coil should be hot in start or run position.
Careful Brian! He has a 12 volt conversion and a Ford inline 6. His ignition sytem gets it juice from two different sources. 1 - During start the I terminal on the solenoid bypasses the ballast resistor and gives a hotter spark. With the key/ign sw in run the power is supplied thru the ballast resistor to the coil.
Trace the two wires, making sure they go where they are supposed to,
and that there aren’t any splices or such along the way.
I know what you said about the switch terminals being hot when they
should be, but if the wires go where they should I’d suspect a bad ignition switch.
Just my two cents.
And they are easy to find and cheap at the auto parts stores.
Take care,
when you turn the switch to start. Otherwise the starter would run all
the time. The wire from the switch to the coil should be hot in start or run position.
Careful Brian! He has a 12 volt conversion and a Ford inline 6. His ignition sytem gets it juice from two different sources. 1 - During start the I terminal on the solenoid bypasses the ballast resistor and gives a hotter spark. With the key/ign sw in run the power is supplied thru the ballast resistor to the coil.
Trace the two wires, making sure they go where they are supposed to,
and that there aren’t any splices or such along the way.
I know what you said about the switch terminals being hot when they
should be, but if the wires go where they should I’d suspect a bad ignition switch.
Just my two cents.
And they are easy to find and cheap at the auto parts stores.
Take care,