M38 door handles.

[billybob]

I just received a pair of door handles for my 52 M38 from John at Midwest Military. Like everything else I've got from him, I'm very well satisfied with them. Both the product and fast service. My question is, the shaft or piece that goes through the door is welded to the outside handle. How do I secure the inside handle to it? There are no threads or screw hole on the inside end of the shaft. I could drill a hole in the end of it and tap it for a #8 or #10 screw. Just wondering what is the correct way. Thanks.

[dpcd67]

Originals are bradded/riveted/peened over to hold the handle onto the shaft.

[billybob]

Thank you. I never knew that. I would like to be able to remove them. I'll think of something. I may do like Bretto and drill out the one that's there now and use a piece of bolt with a lock nut on it.

[wesk]

From the looks of this I will guess it matches your new door handles.

There are several ways to peen the inside over after you assemble the latch handle. All will get the job done but it then becomes a permanent installation with destruction of the handle usually the result if the need arises to disassemble.

I got lucky a few years back and got my hand on the drawings that accompanied the door kit for the M38A1. Note how the handle is assembled for the real Army supplied door kits.

[billybob]

Yes Wesk. That's exactly what I got from John and it does look like there's just enough extra length to rivet it. That may be what I do when I get to that point.

[wesk]

If there is enough length to properly peen it over then there should also be enough length to allow a Circlip groove.

[billybob]

Maybe so but I'm not sure that would work. It's half round in that area plus it would be very hard to get a proper groove in it because I couldn't get it in my lathe. I could drill out the shaft that's there and replace it with a threaded piece and use a locknut. That way I could adjust the tension on it to keep it snug.

[dpcd67]

I would cut off the current one and weld in a new one made longer, and threaded, and use a self locking nut and washer, then you can remove it anytime you want. That would be stronger and easier than drilling and tapping the current one as the bolt would have to be small, like 10-32.

[billybob]

dpcd67, I'm seriously thinking about that. I'll have to enlarge the hole in the interior handle just a tiny bit but still keep the flat area. No problem. I've worked on tougher problems.

[wesk]

Rather than beat up the exterior handle just take a threaded bolt of the sam diameter. Cut the threaded section off, SQUARED of COURSE, and weld that section to the handle stump then grind the flat in it for the handle.

[billybob]

Not to disagree and everything would be so simple but the end of the shaft has been turned down from 3/8 to 11/32. Replacing the shaft in the exterior handle is no problem at all. Flattening the threaded end of a cut-off bolt is also no problem. I'll just have to enlarge the hole a tiny bit without destroying the flat part.

[ChuckW]

To revive this old thread, I am fixing to replace the door canvas on my M38 door frames and I am really thinking about using the M38A1 handles that use the locknut rather than having to peen the shaft over on the inside. Other than not being as original, anybody see any problems with doing this? From what I read, it's even possible that these style handles were used on late/replacement M38 doors.
Thanks!

[sblue]

I'm with you chuck , just ordered (late style) handles for my 52-38 from Dan @MWM. I think its a little better design. Great web site THANKS Wes[/u][/i][/b]

[4x4M38]

Well and to use the original M38 handles, why not just drill and tap a hole in the peen side and use a bolt with flat washer to retain the handle?

You may have to grind/file the shaft so it’s flush with the handle.