Electrical Issue- NO SPARK - Need help!

Larker1 · Post by **Larker1** » Sun Jun 09, 2019 1:10 pm

Hi All,
Need some trouble shooting help from experts. I have a 1952 M38 and I fully restored several years ago (very close to original standards). I am not a expert car mechanic! Has been running great, until last weekend driving along and just stopped running. Felt like no spark to plugs. Checked plugs and sure enough NO SPARK. One thing I never rebuilt was the distributor, so I completely went thru it. New 24 volt coil, condensor, points, resister, cap, rotor the whole nine yards. Went to try and start....same thing....no spark to plugs. Generator was rebuilt and the original voltage regulator was checked and OK'ed. Could it be the voltage regulator? Is there one of those fuses under dash I should check? Spark plug wires? Any help is greatly appreciated! Dan

Hello Dan, I moved your post from our projects board to our technical inquirey board. Before you fall into a serious of SHOTGUN TROUBLESHOOTING RUTS please read and head my post below. Management: WesK

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Sun Jun 09, 2019 3:29 pm

Hello. We can remove the voltage regulator and the generator from the list.

I always learned to check the power supply first.

1) Take the connector off of the side of the distributor and check for 24V when the ignition switch is on.

We will do this one step at a time.

keats · Post by **keats** » Sun Jun 09, 2019 7:08 pm

does dist. turn when trying to start engine?

Post by **wesk** » Sun Jun 09, 2019 7:16 pm

The best place to start is HERE: TM 9-8012 Chapter 3, Section IV Troubleshooting.

Page 73 Paragraph 78 b. (6)

Page 82 Paragraph 81

FOLLOW STEP BY STEP Record your results on a sheet of paper for each item checked.

Any other form of troubleshooting results in a lack of organization and hopping around the chart which usually results in a lot of wasted time and a lot of mistakes.

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Sun Jun 09, 2019 7:26 pm

Nothing "Shotgunning" about following standard trouble shooting techniques used throughout the industry.

1) Check for power at the item under test.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Jun 09, 2019 8:15 pm

I am not going to argue with you or waste a ton of time trying to explain why pitching "maybe try this" or "Check this" in no specific form of order is not the best way for a troop to learn proper troubleshooting technigues. I do ask that you give the troop a chance to try it the book way. I believe this troop wants to learn how rather than have someone else do it for him on line.

Larker1 · Post by **Larker1** » Mon Jun 10, 2019 4:10 am

Thanks so much for responses. I will check TM but as a response to comments....Yes, distributor turns with engine. Checked 24V at power source to distri and NO power there....Whats next fuse bad maybe? Gauges move with ignition switch, but I noticed NO Oil pressure when i turn engine over for some time (thought I used to see some pressure) So, maybe the fuse. Or I was thinking the voltage reg went bad (it is the original). Can those fuses go bad? Thought they would pop and then reset themselves. Thx so much!

cabinfever · Post by **cabinfever** » Mon Jun 10, 2019 1:58 pm

I had the same issue on July 3. I was schedule to do two parades the next day.

The engine turned over, but no spark.

I followed the trouble-shooting steps in my TM. It took maybe 15 minutes to find that the condenser/capacitor was bad.

I bought a new condenser at NAPA for a few bucks. I had three NAPA guys trying to figure out which part would work for me. "I think this one will work, it's for a tractor."

Well, it did work and got me through the parades. The hardest part of the whole ordeal was trying to get that little screw back in that holds the coil and condenser wires to the points.

Always follow the TM trouble-shooting steps. They'll save you time and money.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Jun 10, 2019 9:43 pm

Larker, You appear to be grabbing at unrelated straws. What were your results from following the step by step list in the troubleshooting guide.

Larker1 · Post by **Larker1** » Tue Jun 11, 2019 3:46 am

Figured it out last night. Simple electrical tester and worked backwards from no power to distributor. Bad ignition switch. Ordered a new one from AJP. Thx so much for all your help. This blog has always been a huge help if you have an old M Jeep!!

mdainsd · Post by **mdainsd** » Tue Jun 11, 2019 7:23 am

Glad you got it figured out!

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jun 11, 2019 11:01 am

Was your old switch a 2, 3 or 4 wire switch? Douglas or Packard connectors?

When your new switch arrives and does not have the same wire count as your old and/or has Rubber Packard connectors see my photo album on the various switches and their wiring.

Larker1 · Post by **Larker1** » Wed Jun 12, 2019 4:01 am

Old switch, which wasn't that old (bought a NOS one) from AJP is like original, with Douglas connectors. Two wires come out back. Single and single to a double connector. I guess they sell only one that is a 24v for an M38. Not sure why the old one failed...just old I guess. thx!

Van · Post by **Van** » Thu Jun 13, 2019 2:57 pm

What is the part number for the Napa condenser. I need a 24 volt one for my 1955 38a1

cabinfever · Post by **cabinfever** » Thu Jun 13, 2019 3:35 pm

Van wrote:What is the part number for the Napa condenser. I need a 24 volt one for my 1955 38a1

That NAPA condenser got me through the 4th of July weekend. However, since the NAPA guys were not positive it was the correct one, I bought the correct condenser from Midwest Military. MM knows their stuff. I keep the NAPA one as a spare.

willysmjeeps.com

Electrical Issue- NO SPARK - Need help!

Electrical Issue- NO SPARK - Need help!

no Spark

Re: no Spark