Mongrel M38 in Dorchester County SC

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Wed May 04, 2016 9:02 pm

I liked RickG and Bretto's rear license plate holder so much I had to try it myself. Not much night running, but added the light for SCDMV, will hook it into the tail light circuit.

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4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Thu May 05, 2016 7:03 am

That's a tight looking rig, Ron, right down to the red painted
lube points!

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Thu May 05, 2016 7:26 am

Thanks, getting there. Those lube points are captive red plastic covers. Got a bag of 50 for $7. I figured I'd take advantage of small technology advancement instead of a red paint brush all over the jeep. Easy to see, remove, and replace. Helps keep the dirt out of the zerk too.

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Mon May 09, 2016 10:25 pm

I ordered a set of top bows from RFJP on the last day of his free shipping special. They arrived coast-to-coast in quick time and great shape (bubble-wrapped on the ends and corners with a twist or three of shrink wrap holding them together). I was pleasantly surprised FX didn't mangle them. They're sturdy, well made (in the U.S.A.), and sit in the up and stow brackets nicely. I don't have the bracing rods or canvas yet so I can't comment on final fit but my bet is they're good to go.

I do have a question that I can't seem to locate a photo in the forum or the TM. Might be blind. The drivers side of the bow has the hole for the wing-bolt retaining chain on the top edge of the bracket and the curb side hole is on the low edge of the bracket. Would this be as the originals were made? How come? I know I'm down in the weeds here, but inquiring mind wants to know.....thanks!

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Sun Jun 24, 2018 3:16 pm

Went to replace the points-to-coil wire on my 12V distributor and one thing led to another. The screw head holding the wire to the points was mostly mangled so what the heck, replace it too. Tight space, so pull the distributor to work with it on the bench. Inspect the rest of the distributor and find what looks like a cracked case:

Sure looks like a crack to me anyway. Can't be a good thing. Doesn't look like a casting flaw. Can't imagine it's repairable, or worth repairing. Maybe it's common and doesn't affect operation?

Having trouble identifying the part number of this distributor. No markings on it. No external oiler. No anti-rattle clip. Looks like it's been around awhile, cleaned up by the previous owner. It was on the jeep <running poorly> when I bought it. If I should replace it, what's the best 12V distributor out there? Your advice appreciated!

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Sun Jun 24, 2018 4:57 pm

Continuing on from the previous distributor issue thread, I finally get around to removing what looks to me like a home-made timing pointer and replacing it with the correct one. The home-made one points at least an inch off compared to where the correct one points.

Getting ready to time the engine, which I'm pretty sure will eventually lead me to pulling and re-indexing the oil pump which is installed a tooth or two off by the previous owner along with the home-made pointer. I'll also have to find and mark the pulley for the pointer (haven't found a hole or notch in the pulley yet, might be under paint). The distributor was adjusted all the way against the adjustment stop and ran poorly. My jeep also has the early timing cover to see timing marks on the flywheel. Haven't been able to find them yet because I haven't been able to turn the engine by hand to look--- can't get a socket on the crankshaft pulley nut, can't hand turn it using the fan belts. It's not 1-1/16 nut across the flats like the TM says it should be, it's more like 1-3/8 and mangled some at that. Haven't been able to find a 1-3/8 socket either.

The white mark on the pulley was for the home-made pointer.
My question: can I remove and replace the crankshaft pulley nut with a correct one as it sits? Would probably put a new pulley on at the same time. Anything I should pay particular attention to doing it?

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Mon Jun 25, 2018 9:23 am

Found a 1-3/8 inch 6-point impact socket.......

Post by **wesk** » Mon Jun 25, 2018 9:34 am

It's not 1-1/16 nut across the flats like the TM says it should be, it's more like 1-3/8 and mangled some at that. Haven't been able to find a 1-3/8 socket either.

The 1 1/16" spec in the ORD 9 ID's the nut's inside diameter. It is designed to fit 1 1/16" Threaded shaft or bolt. 1 3/8" is the correct socket size for the stock nut.

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Mon Jun 25, 2018 9:55 am

Thanks Wes. Sure wasn't thinking on that one.

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Sat Sep 29, 2018 7:58 pm

Well......I found another Baby Ruth in the punch bowl on my Jeep Salad Bar today. (Yes, metaphor mixology is one of my other hobbies). And I thought I'd get back to posting on my project page instead of the Tech Knowledge Base - been lazy about that.

To re-cap, the truck was converted to 12v by previous owner. My 1st jeep (still a rookie), and I always thought the starter turned the engine over pretty well (even if it wouldn't run due to other issues -- all now repaired). No grinding noises, but what the heck do I know? About once in 20-25 attempts the Bendix would spin out but not engage the flywheel. Not a huge problem me thinks (but obviously not right) and it came up on the list for a look today. So, I pulled the starter motor to see what I have. Although I knew I have an early bell housing and starter, I was never certain of the tooth count on the flywheel and starter pinion gear. Now I am.........flywheel is 97-tooth........starter pinion gear is 9-tooth......what? Count them both again. Count was accurate the first time. I learned from Wes here that 97-tooth flywheel goes with 10-tooth pinion gear not 9. The Willys Service Manual is about as clear as mud on this --- too many variables I guess.

I don't have any busted or chipped gear teeth (lucky I guess, or a testimony to a rugged design?) How in the heck could it crank so well?

I cleaned a handful of crud out of the brush end of the motor, and I think the brushes are wearing thin, no doubt a re-build was in my future anyway. But this thing works!

No way to tell what it is...... a 6-volt MZ-4113 with the wrong bendix drive on it? A MZ-4113 re-wound for 12v and a bendix for a 124-tooth flywheel? MZ-4163 ? Possibilities abound, and wondering doesn't get me where I need to go.

The flywheel looks so good (I looked at every tooth during the counts) so I'm not interested in swapping it right now, perhaps later. Besides, I'm thinking with what I have, the supply of MB /CJ-2A starters might be considerably larger. I know, pricing law of supply and demand doesn't have to make sense in this hobby.....just daydreaming.

Right now, I'm thinking I need a solid, reliable, rebuilt MZ-4113, and hope I can get a core charge for this Baby Ruth. There's no old-school starter shops near me.......can anybody recommend a good shop in your neck of the woods?

As always, your comments and advice are appreciated!

Naugha · Post by **Naugha** » Sun Sep 05, 2021 3:47 pm

Hey Ron, the storyline of your M38 adventure has some of the same plot events found in my build. Looking good but how about some more pics?

.... while you are taking those pics, crawl under the oil pan and do some closeups of the pulley guard, spacers, pan hardware and that other thing..... the one I don’t know what it is or where it goes.

What makes all the letters get small ???

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Sun Sep 05, 2021 4:37 pm

You're right Don, I haven't been too good lately about keeping up with this thread. I'll see what I can do about that.