Fuel tank problem
Moderators: TomM, Moderator, wesk
- DMCarpenter
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- Posts: 97
- Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Denver, NC
Fuel tank problem
I was able to successfully pull the tank from the black goo that cemented it in place, but I have another problem. The PO had twisted off several screws that held the filter/pickup in place. Well, I succeeded in twisting off the remainder, all but one. What is the best method to remove the remaining pieces? I have thought about using vise grips on the stubs, but thought taht I would ask before screwing up more.
- wesk
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Soak them with penetrant first.
Also when ever you tackle screws that have been left untouched for years try to turn them slightly in the tighten direction first then towards loosen but only a couple of degrees at a time. Also a manual impact tool does wonders for breaking them loose without breaking them.
Also when ever you tackle screws that have been left untouched for years try to turn them slightly in the tighten direction first then towards loosen but only a couple of degrees at a time. Also a manual impact tool does wonders for breaking them loose without breaking them.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- DMCarpenter
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- Posts: 97
- Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Denver, NC
- wesk
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- Posts: 16413
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 6:00 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
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Not in my opinion. PB blaster and kroil work fine. So does a high dollar bottle of Mouse Milk.
The key to getting the old screws out is to get enough shock to them to snap them loose but not shear them off. That's why I like the little hand held hammer type impact wrench with a bit holder and for phillips screws I prefer hardened quality ACO (anti-cam-out) bits.
Here's a web site for this tool:
http://www.kd-tools.com/1140.htm

The key to getting the old screws out is to get enough shock to them to snap them loose but not shear them off. That's why I like the little hand held hammer type impact wrench with a bit holder and for phillips screws I prefer hardened quality ACO (anti-cam-out) bits.
Here's a web site for this tool:
http://www.kd-tools.com/1140.htm

Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- bubagun
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- Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 6:00 pm
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I twisted the screws off in several M38 tanks. What I did was grind the heads off of ALL of them...pull the sending unit out. Warm them up with a torch and put the vice grips to 'em. The ones that would not come out or were broken..ground 'em flush and then used a mill to miill them out... then tapped the holes to the next bigger machine screw size and then used stainless steel machine screws to re-install the new sender unit.
1950-M38, 1952-M38, 1964 M151A1, Mechanical Mule, 1945 CCKW,M100 trailer, M416 trailer.