M38 : OK, Boomer

Naugha · Post by **Naugha** » Tue Jun 07, 2022 7:33 pm

“The crimp tool is used for Douglas and Packard style connectors.” Ron
Yes. My crimp tool is for the connectors.

The thing about my VR to generator cable is the wires under the shielding mesh. Could those wires be OK after 70 years? Do some resto folks use these old VR cables? Any way to know, or just buy a repo?

‘Radio noise suppression’ .... will that tone down the noise from cars with over the top speakers ?

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Tue Jun 07, 2022 7:46 pm

Naugha wrote:The thing about my VR to generator cable is the wires under the shielding mesh.

Assume you're talking about the 3 wires inside a 3-conductor cable?
So long as the shielding is electrically insulated from the conductor wires and the conductor wires are electrically insulated from each other, everything should be good.

One of the purposes of a megger is to test your old flaky rotted rubber insulation (or new electrical tape) to see if it can pass electricity without shorting (a.k.a. "fire and smoke").
Either that, or you can test it the first time you start the motor.

Naugha wrote:‘Radio noise suppression’ .... will that tone down the noise from cars with over the top speakers ?

No. Only ear plugs can do that.
It shouldn't be a problem anyway.
They'll be passing you like you're standing still (unless they run up your tail pipe).

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Tue Jun 07, 2022 7:58 pm

[quote="RonD2 .
They'll be passing you like you're standing still (unless they run up your tail pipe).

[/quote]

faster than the speed of sound?

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Tue Jun 07, 2022 8:18 pm

You bet.
Haven't seen Maverick Top Gun yet?

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jun 07, 2022 11:24 pm

Don,

The 3 pin connector services the generator and the 4 pin connector services the firewall harness.

RonD,

Most Bendix connectors as well as the dozens of other brands offer both solder and crimp type terminals for many of their connectors. The two crimp tools I posted photos of are for the original army issue tool and an equivalent aftermarket replacement and yes they were designed for the douglass connector pins. I have 3 or 4 more with replaceable jaw sets I use on the job on both aircraft electrical and aircraft avionics connectors as well as these old Bendix connectors. New they are not CHEAP!

I have a megger I bought 32 years ago when I retired from the Air Force that I still use today. It's handy for quick checks of insulation and shielding but those gen to reg cables and gen to firewall cables are easily opened up to inspect the condition of the internal wire insulation.

Naugha · Post by **Naugha** » Sun Jun 12, 2022 8:27 am

Went to install the engine stay cable and noticed I had left off the two bell housing support brackets. These brackets were not on the jeep or in the stash when I got it. The bell, plate and starter are the late versions so I should probably use the brackets. Not sure if the brackets are vital to the build and not sure where to get them.

Here is a thread that shows the brackets and the stay cable.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... pic&t=6555

Post by **wesk** » Sun Jun 12, 2022 11:18 am

Go to the ORD 9 and look up the part number page 31 3rd & 4th up from bottom of page and then google that part number.

Naugha · Post by **Naugha** » Thu Jun 16, 2022 1:23 pm

Naugha · Post by **Naugha** » Fri Jun 17, 2022 2:52 pm

Went to install the two bell housing brackets shown above... but now another little problem.

My engine stay cable measures 15 1/2” which is a good 1” too long.
Leaving off the aft nut would make it work but that is not the correct way to install the cable.
The bracket that holds the ball is not bent.

Some threads mention two different cable lengths but I don’t think I see a short/long cable variation offered by the vendors.
So, maybe someone has a shorter cable in their stash or knows more about the cable I need.

Hold on. Bubba just called.

Taper the inside of a bolt to fit the front section of the cable, grind down the bolt thickness to allow room for the clip.
It should allow proper tension adjustment for the cable without damage to the part.

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Fri Jun 17, 2022 7:19 pm

Hi Don,
"Taper the inside of a bolt"?
What's that black nut doing on there? (Is that you Bubba?)

Mine doesn't have that nut. Just the smaller hex on the end like yours.
I measured my cable at 15-inches end-to-end (ball included)
Pretty sure it's original by the wear pattern on the threads.

Maybe you have something else (CJ, MB, M38A1)?
Hard to imagine they'd stretch that much.
I also couldn't find any old posts with a definite answer on measurements for the M38, and no help in the manual.

I assume you have it plugged into the correct hole?

Good luck!

Naugha · Post by **Naugha** » Sat Jun 18, 2022 6:06 am

Maybe I am getting my jeeps mixed up.

My jeep’s engine stay cable came with two nuts. Can’t remember if the cable was part of the stash or mounted on the jeep. The bell & plate were replaced with the late versions to allow use of a late starter.

Here is a thread that discusses the stay cable on the A1.

My brain was reading the M38/M38A1 stay cables as the same with two part number variations.... and two adjustment nuts that go on the front & back of lower driver’s side bell housing bolt hole/ plate & left (DS) plate bracket.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... highlight=

“There are two different cables. Willys 649706 (Ord # 7372548) early M38 and Willys 804488 (Ord # 8328043) late M38 and M38A1. You are suppose to use two nuts.

It is adjusted by leaving the aft nut as far aft as possible then install the forward nut and tighten until you can only move the center of the cable with your thumb pressure up and down about 1/2"
_________________
Wes K ”

Then there’s this old reference to stay cable length.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... highlight=

My 15 1/2” cable works if you only use one nut at the front of the cable to make the tension adjustment.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Jun 18, 2022 10:23 am

Keep in mind that the aft nut keeps the cable from falling loose and creating a snag issue during a rough ride. Look closely at the aft end of the cable and you will note it has a small ball that slips in the slot on the crossmember. That can bounce out of there during extreme road bounce. Your choice now is to use the correct cable for the bell installation (Pay now) or jury rig (Pay later). TM 9-1804A covers removal (Par 20(o) pg 22) & installation (Par 113 pg 101). You have confirmations from at least one member his late cable is 15". That means your 15 1/2" cable is only stretched a 1/2". I'll see if I can locate an early cable and measure it.

rgmutchler · Post by **rgmutchler** » Sat Jun 18, 2022 11:24 am

Years ago I bought a stay cable for my early M38 from D&L Bensinger. They sent me the longer one and when I found the problem they had the shorter one in stock and were happy to exchange, I say this to say that the correct ones were out there and probably still are from Bensinger and probably Midwest Mil., Mullins, DeBella etc.

Naugha · Post by **Naugha** » Sat Jun 18, 2022 12:17 pm

Thanks Wes

Sounds like I have the wrong cable or a stretched out cable.
Per Rg’s suggestion I will call around for the shorter cable.

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Thu Jan 19, 2023 5:52 pm

Hi Don,
Howzit going on that nice old M38?