52 M38, Farm find in NC

[Mjp83]

I then attempted to repair the lip which the tool box will attach to. Here I cut ahead and made the replacement panel to fit to fill the hole. This took more time, as I had to grind the replacement metal to get a nice fit. Notice again I sprayed the 3M weld through primer liberally on the virgin steel, to hopefully prevent future corrosion. I am currently undecided, but think I will sand and spray my repaired areas with epoxy primer and avoid the red oxide primer unless I just need to cover a small panel quickly. Disclaimer, I am a pastry chef by trade, not a welder, but let me tell you, I can spread some bondo just as smooth as cake icing ....

[Mjp83]

Well, after i got to looking at the rear of the tub, I noticed the tailgate reinforcement angle iron had pulled away from the tub, ripping the sheetmetal. There was also quite a bit or rust between the added rear tub reinforcement plate welded on by the Army at some later time (this was to keep the rear body corners from crushing under the arctic top). I went ahead and removed a few spot welds, along with the angle iron brace and ordered a new panel. This panel came from an ebay seller, I am not sure who made it, I feel it is a better panel made specifically for rebuilding the tub. Why do I say this? There a some notches cut to simply slide the panel right into place.

[Ryan_Miller]

You are doing a great job!

[ocwd]

Nice work. Can't wait to see the tub when it's done.

[Mjp83]

While the tub is still in mock up I wanted to be sure the clutch and brake components were installed so I can line up the floor board properly (or at least try )
So I notice my original rod was not so original. Purchased a new clutch rod kit, and this sad rod (green) showed up. Nope, not gonna work, been there with my CJ7 (I do not forsee this rig clocking 100K miles, drove the CJ during HS and College). Anyhow looked up clutch linkage kits, and could not fine anything under $80, with most running $150 for universal kits.
I was after a heim joint set up. So after searching the usual online places, I ended up the local hardware store (my big box store is become less useful for this project).
The son of the owner (three generations work there), took me immediately to the bell crank section, and had several choices, but the ball socket/heim joint was what I was after, and get this, it was the same price as the basic "H" style joint, a whopping $10!
So I grabbed some grade 8 bolts, locking juts and took to mocking up the new adjustable rod. Installed and works like a dream!

EDIT: This is how I installed my cross brake and clutch tube using 4 washers. My original and a friends only had the washer closest to the frame (engine side) in-between the frame mount and brake pedal. I used another fat washer from my OE parts bin and placed it against the frame bracket and clutch pedal. Then I purchased some thin washers with a 1" ID from Tractor supply to put between brake pedal and the tie plate and one after the tie plate but before the cotter pin. This tightened everything up.

[Mjp83]

Well, last night I got a lot further than expected. I mocked up the body.
First thing I did was positioned the front floor the best way it would fit. Then I slid in the fire wall section. Next, I added the rear floor and wheel house section. The ONLY factory body mount locations are the two carriage bolts in the middle of the rear floor, so I loosely bolted these down to get some alignment of the tub.
Next I bolted on the fenders to the frame, and added the grill. I purposely did not sand blast these parts, as I wanted to be able to line up the bolts and washers exactly how they were originally. Then I moved the clamped together firewall and new floor section to the fenders, measured side to side and bolted them up, making sure the washers and old paint lines would match to the cowl section. Came up pretty good! I took my note book out, and could not believe it, but all my previous measurements matched with the current mock up!!


But that feeling of euphoria was short lived, as I began to mock up the new side panels. The drive side was straight and very well made, EXCEPT for the rear corner!!! The lower radius is way off! The passenger side fit with a little work, but has a heck of a bow in the panel. I hope it will straighten out when welding up. I plan on starting at the rear corners, and working my way forward to the door joint. My plan is to use sheetmetal screws to hold the panel in place while welding. As for the driver corner, I will cut the lower seam and try to roll it over a steel pipe to make it conform.

[Ryan_Miller]

You are making good progress. The reproduction stuff often times is close but it costs a lot to get to that last 10% so they figure the panel can be sold with the purchaser having to work through the rest.

[4x4M38]

There is an MWO for building an adjustable clutch rod similar to what you show. Several of us here have those Army crafted rods.

[Mjp83]

There is an MWO for building an adjustable clutch rod similar to what you show. Several of us here have those Army crafted rods.

Hi Brian,
are you talking about the red primered one which I took out of the jeep? I thought for sure my farmer built that one, seems the open hinged end came off a tractor push rod.

[Mjp83]

You are making good progress. The reproduction stuff often times is close but it costs a lot to get to that last 10% so they figure the panel can be sold with the purchaser having to work through the rest.

Thanks Ryan, let me tell you, NOW I really understand the true value of your book!!! Originally I just looked at all the drawings and pictures, but now I am paying attention to all the details to include holes, mounts and most of all the correct bolt types! Of course, Wes's album has saved me also lots of headaches! Currently drawing where the different body mount rubbers go based on thickness and what bolts go where!

[wesk]

You are doing a lot of hard work and seem to be progressing quite well. One heads up I will offer is tub alignment and mounting.

How well your tub installation goes depends a LOT on how square the frame is. The TM 9-1804B helps a lot and offers excellent frame square up dimensions and shows how to get your frame perfectly straight.

All these jeep's manuals start the body alignment process with the tub rear edge lined up flush with the rear crossmember's edge. With correct original tub size dimensions this assured the fenders, hood and grill ended up in the right place. Complete aftermarket tubs are usually very much mis-sized. Piecemeal aftermarket tub sections only increase the aggravation. In your situation I would start with the true step one, Frame alignment. then I would gather up all the standard tub mounting shims listed in the ord 9 and would start the first tub alignment using the stock shims at each mounting points as you work your way forward. Now you can position the rear half of your tub per the manual.

Frame Alignment from TM 9-1804B Chap. 13: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php



Tub Mounting: TM 9-1804B Par 45: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

[wesk]

[Mjp83]

Wes,

Thank you for giving me the guidance. I actually just did that, I printed out the frame diagram with the cushion list/bolt locations.
I placed rubber pads and truck bed rubber liner cut to shape at the outlined places. Then my son and I added the rear section, and aligned the two original bolts in the rear floor and loosely bolted them in. This aligned the rear bumper mounts perfectly.
Then we mounted the fenders to the firewall and installed the grill. We re-checked all our original measurements and I started to place sheet metal screws in the front cowl and floor section. Then we confirmed the floor was as centered as possible, and I proceeded to weld in the rear floor riser from the tranny hump outward, making sure the floor was level/straight. What a pain this was!! Luckily my scissor lift gave me just enough clearance to be able to sit under the jeep and weld overhead. Not fun! Tomorrow I plan on working the side skins for a proper fit, before I weld the fire wall. Jeep,is pretty solid now that the floor and rear sections are one and bolted together.

[4x4M38]

Thanks Wes! That’s the clutch rod mod I have. Love the Army using part of the original!!

Your work reminds me not only of Coastiereid, but Ralph in Texas, and an old series I think called,”Too Rusty To Save?” About rebuilding a CJ. Amazing what ya’ll are able to accomplish.

[Mjp83]

Thank you Brian! I am so glad to be past the dealing with greasy and rusty parts stage! For anyone questioning the best way to get rid of rust, I absolutely must recommend taking parts to a professional sandblaster. Our frames have way too many nooks and crannies to clean w a wire wheel. The body has also many hidden spots, and I am glad I paid to have it done. It’s was $125 for the frame, and again $125 for the cowl and rear floor with fenders. I will drop off my hood, f fenders, grill and windshield to get all the rust of as well. Also, coating the bare metal with a 2K Epoxy Primer will ensure it will stay rust free for some time!
My wife bought me a blasting cabinet, which is very rewarding to use on small parts, especially brackets to be welded back on.
I also bought a HF parts washer which was great during transmission and Tcase and steering box rebuild.