willysmjeeps.com

Well let’s just say that I am a dumb dumb. I move down my Dana 25 out back because I needed to do a brake job on my friends truck (long story but older lady from the base I used to work at asked for vehicle help because local shops aren’t so honest). Anyway, I left my jackstands up in high position, I should have dropped them down. When I was rolling the axle under the Jeep frame, the rear JAckstand didn't like the soft ground, (it rained a ton last night) and the higher front angle to give me clearance. And down she came.
I was absolutely safe distance away and the dogs were inside so no one got hurt. I finished the axle installation and then lifted the rear to the lowest jack setting and left it that way.

It started getting cold, so I knew my time outside needed to be short, I grabbed my rear hubs, my lugs and made them meet


I got my rear Dana 44 yoke sleeve yesterday. They sent to the wrong store so I had to drive the 15 miles south to the bad side of town to get it. It went on super easy. This part was listed in ryan’s book.


Got my Dana 44 pinion preload set.needs to be 14-19 inch pounds,
I have a 18-19 all around,
I started working on the Dana 44 carrier bearings but I needed Tylenol for my aching back and it’s time for dinner.
I’ll finish that tomorrow night,

I bought a used HF 20ton press to do a few ‘easy’ things with the M38. My clean & painted differentials/axles have been sitting in the living quarters of the barn along with all the rebuild parts.

All the origional shim packs were saved and the carrier retaining caps were marked for proper reassembly. Every step of disassembly was photographed.

I watched past videos on reassembly and chickened out... but after seeing this part of your posts, have decided to give it a go.

As I review your work... here is what I am thinking.

My first concern is the probable need to assemble/measure/reassemble the pinion several times to properly set rotational torque.

* Can I remove the splines from an old yolk and use it to expedite pinion adjustment for both differentials? I have bought new replacement yolks.

* Does the de-splined yolk need to be torqued to 250 ftlbs during each attempt to set rotational torque ? or only on the last fitting?

* No oil seal used during RT adjustment (right)?

* Will I need to buy another set of new bearings that will be sacrificed for each step of the task?

* One rebuilder on YT uses a pneumatic impact tool to disassemble the pinion for shim changes rather than using dummy bearings. Would that work?

* My parts supplier (who also rebuilds) gave me Timken races and Koyo bearings with the assurance the combo has worked fine for him. Isthat OK?

Pinion Depth .... The YT rebuilder mentioned above just assumes that if the pinion / carrier have not been changed or damaged .... you can use the same pinion depth shims (or replacements of the same stack thickness) without the need to check pinion depth ..... any problems would show up in the final tooth pattern test.

Darn .... my head is spinning and we are only in the pinion.

Don, I used an old slip yoke, for the dana 25. it was already in rough shape and easy enough to buy a new one. I took a grinder to the inside the splines and milled them out. used that to check rotational torque.

I have been measuring and setting the rotational torque a million times it seems. but in reality it was probably 10. And yes I torqued the pinion nut to 200# each time. No oil sea in there when checking rotational torque.

If you want to do the job yourself, you just need the tools, confidence and knowledge to get going. I am well aware of my ability to f- up and drive on. If I break it, I break it. its my jeep and I don't plan on selling it.

When i checked pinion depth, I used the stack shims sized like what I pulled out. did the rotational torque. set my carrier and then did tooth pattern check. If i had it wrong, it would show up in there on the indicator paint.

my repop rear seat came in. fits in between the wheel wells which is a good sign. I need the support brackets still which are on back order.
I am waiting on my driver seat too.

I spent half the day in the cold outside working on filling this hole.


4 hours later



there are a couple pin holes I need to hit with the welder again, and start banging out some dents. The top dent at the passenger rail above the shovel is not going to be fixed. I am leaving that.

I didn't get to the tool box installation as it was getting right cold outside and temps dropped down to 40. long johns and sitting in the wet mud all day didn't help.

Marathon build going back to regular scheduled work weeks. Head back to work this morning. UGH. 3 years till retirement.

CoastieReid wrote: If you want to do the job yourself, you just need the tools, confidence and knowledge to get going. I am well aware of my ability to f- up and drive on. If I break it, I break it. its my jeep and I don't plan on selling it. .

. When making rotational torque shim changes, how did you pull the pinion ten times without damage to the new bearings & shims ... or am I confused about this process?

* Did you sacrifice/ hone identical bearings to make an easy to remove ‘dummy set’ ?

* Have you seen the YT video by “Metalshaper” where he uses a hand held impact chisel gun to bump out the pinion?

* Did you measure for ‘backlash’?

Thanks for the info
Don

Midwest Military has these on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Willys-Jeep-M3 ... 3684187223

Among many other items.

Here’s the whole kit:

https://store.midwestmilitary.com/product-p/mwm139.htm

Don, yes I used a second set of bearings ireamed out.
I didn’t need to pull the pinion with a air hammer like Brian (metalshaper) did. I tapped mine with a hammer and it pops.
And measuring backlash I used a dial indicator.

4x4M38, I ordered the pieces from Kw not knowing they were on back order at the time.

It’s freezing rain and snow mix outside today so no weld work being done.
I am actually just chilling on the couch with the pups and a bit of reading.

We shall see how long those parts take. The backorder thing is frustrating.

Thanks for the info.

Don.

I have had this tool box in and out a thousand times to fit it, fill the gap in the front stbd corner where the box meets the inside bulkhead indents where the pioneer tools are.

It’s been freezing out here and I’ve only gotten an hour or two at a time to work on it.
But- unfortunately I was sent home from work yesterday as a precaution due to a shipmate coming down with COVID like symptoms and I was close enough contact in the few days leading up to yesterday that I was sent to quarantine.
I feel fine, but you never know. And I had Head/Neck cancer 7 years ago so I’m already immune compromised.

Love the stbd comment I once told my wife to look at the squirrel on the port side of the lawn. I know not jeep stuff but could not resist. Cheers Rob
'

You sure do not want to incorporate the Hot Water Heater kit later. You have to cut new hole at the front and right sides of the toolbox area!

wesk wrote:You sure do not want to incorporate the Hot Water Heater kit later. You have to cut new hole at the front and right sides of the toolbox area!

I’ve actually considered it.
When I built my f100 I made it so nice I’m afraid to drive it and any scratch or imperfection I obsess over. This Jeep- it’s not going to be perfect- it will be a fun vehicle. I am just a modern day bubba I guess because some folks want perfect, not me in this situation.
If I put a top on it, (canvas) I may want heat too.

Made 500$ doing that side job maintenance on the CRv. So of course that goes to the Jeep fund.

Messing with the Dana 44 today.been a lot of moving shims and all.
Remember used gears, new bearings. Pinion Preload sat. Ring gear backlash sat. Coast side of pattern looks good. The drive side has a shadow of where it’s worn in.
I’d prefer to replace this ring gear and pinion in a perfect world, but it will have to do.
Coast side


I’m still going to keep at it until I am satisfied.

JEEP - Just Empty Every Pocket.....