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RonD2 wrote:https://shop.midwestmilitary.com/produc ... oot-clamp/
Page 299 in the ORD9.

That's the clamp I installed. Thanks Ron

Tom

Transmission boot has 2 clamps.
Maybe I missed it, but I see the smaller upper clamp (3/4") but not the larger lower clamp (2-3/4").

You cannot see the tranny boot lower clamp after the small panel is installed.

RonD2 wrote:Transmission boot has 2 clamps.
Maybe I missed it, but I see the smaller upper clamp (3/4") but not the larger lower clamp (2-3/4").

It's easy to miss as it blends in with the color of the boot, but you can see it in this shot here.



Hodakaguy

Thanks Tom.
I missed it because it's not where the TM says it should be (above the floor plate).

RonD2 wrote:Thanks Tom.
I missed it because it's not where the TM says it should be (above the floor plate).

I wonder if that's a mistake in the manual? If the clamp was above the tin that would leave a gap where water could spray up and into the tub. All the photos that I've seen put the clamp below the tin. Always interesting learning all the little nuances.

Tom

Worse than that. Water could seep in around the bottom of the seal while fording.

If you are fording in deep water the tub will have water in it anyway. That’s what the two drain covers are for on the front corners of the floor. To let water out.

Quest to reduce oil leaks...

The jeep leaks a small amount from each pinion seal so it's time to get some new seals installed.

Pulling the front yoke






Found the original seal installed backwards and severely damaged. Looks like someone really smashed it during install.








The front yoke is pitted where the seal rides so this yoke will be replaced.




Received two NOS yokes. These are from 1961. Always satisfying opening NOS parts.








Cleaning and painting














The NOS units are a little more robust than the original units. I'll keep the original unit in my spare parts.






Making a seal driver out of a plastic oil filter wrench.




Continued below....

Continued from above...

New double lip seals ordered from Joe's Motor Pool






Joe's seal is very high quality and has thicker metal than the standard single lip seals available.




The original style seal uses paper gaskets to make a seal between the axle housing and the metal seal housing. Joe's Motor Pool double lip seal uses a silicone seal instead of a paper gasket. Nice!








Preparing to install the seal into the axle housing. Here I packed the area around the retaining spring to ensure the spring won't come unseated while driving the seal into place.




Here I applied some Aviation Permatex to the outer edge of the seal. This is just an extra measure as the silicone seal should prevent oil leakage at this area.




Seal driven into place






And the Yoke....




Sealing the splines, washer and nut








Torquing the nut, 200 ft lbs






Same process for the rear






I re-used the yoke on the rear as the seal surface was in perfect cond.










Hodakaguy

To quote Hannibal from the A-Team...."I love it when a plan comes together!" The M38 is running and driving again!

Today it's time to re-install the fuel tank and take the Jeep for a test drive to test out all the new bits. When we purchased the Jeep it had been sitting for years with old fuel in the tank, the inside of the tank had a lot of while powder and gunk in the bottom of the tank so some cleaning was in order.

Here's a few shots of the tank when it was removed from the Jeep




Hmmm...fuel sender wasn't functioning lol. A new one will be installed.








We took to the tank to a radiator shop where they boiled out the tank and re-lined it, should be good for years to come now. Here the tank has a fresh coat of primer and paint applied.








New fuel sender and gaskets ready to be installed




Time for a new filler neck seal.








Back in the Jeep




Here I removed some paint on the rear fuel tank mounting tab so the tank will ground properly. The fuel sender needs a proper ground or it won't function.




And a coat of corrosion inhibitor




Let's get the gaskets in place.




I'll be using Permatex Permashield (Similar to Hylomar) to dress the gaskets and prevent fuel from weeping onto the top of the fuel tank.




The dressing is applied to both surfaces then let sit for a while for the solvents to flash off. After that it's ready for assembly.








Continued Below....

Continued from above...


Dressing applied to the screw threads as well








Tightening up the fuel time behind the tank, the fitting is recessed so I had to get creative to tighten it








Seat Back in....It's a M38 Again!




Dad and I out on a test drive. It shifts and drives great! No more popping out of 2nd gear on decel! After driving it around quite a while there isn't a single drip under the Jeep....hopefully it stays that way












Video of the test drive today...sooo much fun! Apologize for the weird audio feedback and the rattle from the rear seat

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-jdIbxYAxQ

Hodakaguy

Fixing some rattles.

The rear seat has a rattle sound coming from the seats, after pulling back the cover you can see where the springs are wearing against the metal backing. If you slap the seat with your hand you can hear the springs rattle against the base.






I decided to cut some pieces of rubber drawer liner to install between the springs and the bases to keep the two apart and dampen any vibrations. The holes in this material will allow it to breath and not trap moisture under the rubber.


















Out for a parts run to snag some GL4 90W oil and some lunch at Jersey Mikes








After a week of driving the Jeep it's time to do a break in oil change on the Trans/Transfer Case to make sure all looks well. I drained both units through a clean cloth so I can see if there are any metal chunks etc in the oil that shouldn't be there.






Just a bit of metallic fuzz on the magnet, but no chunks. This looks good and was expected with all the new bits and pieces that was installed.




Nothing in the cloth....perfect.




And some fresh GL4 oil....




Back out for a drive and topped off with some ethanol free fuel.




Hodakaguy

Always a pleasure to see your work!
And great ingenuity custom bending a special wrench for fitting the fuel line elbow --- however --- that wouldn’t be necessary if the elbow was correctly located on the other side of the body hole (where it’s completely accessible from underneath the body).
It appears that would also allow the tank to sit just a tad further aft, which might explain why the original filler neck grommet was deformed on the leading edge?

RonD2 wrote:Always a pleasure to see your work!
And great ingenuity custom bending a special wrench for fitting the fuel line elbow --- however --- that wouldn’t be necessary if the elbow was correctly located on the other side of the body hole (where it’s completely accessible from underneath the body).
It appears that would also allow the tank to sit just a tad further aft, which might explain why the original filler neck grommet was deformed on the leading edge

Thanks Ron. I was wondering if this setup was correct, something else to fix in the future . The indent on the seal was from the upper side, the fill neck is pretty centered.

Thanks again for the post.

Tom.

Curious --- maybe I missed it (because you usually photograph everything) --- what did you use for anti-squeak material underneath the gas tank?
Seen here: http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php? ... antisqueak