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The m35 is the later "deuce and a half" or ML as we called it in canada.

One issue you may find with using another harness is that it is set up for Packard connectors while components of your jeep may be set up for Douglas. Not a huge problem, you will just be converting them or making Packard to Douglas jumper adapters.

I have modified a wiring harness such as these (M35) without too much difficulty. You can remove the rubber Packard connections (there is just a little clip that holds them in place) and replace with the correct metal Douglas shells.
Kendall

thxs guys,

what i understand is the m35 is a gasser, and the m35a2 is a multi fuel. dont know what difference there is in the wire harness but if everthing will work on the m38 i can always cut the excess wires off and eliminate the wires thats not being used. is this correct? thxs

Yes. You can also re-purpose a few wires. The military's method of numbering the wires by purpose and then making the same wire # serve the same purpose on all their vehicles is a god send.

thxs wes, i may just go that route then and maybe i can adapt those turn signals wires to add turn signals to the m38.

Adding turn signals will vary with which of the three options you consider: early military relay box system, late military transistorized system or just a standard aftermarket civvy unit. Any of the three are easily adapted to the standard military harness.

I have some easy to follow info in my photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

thxs i very well may this route...

shortening the wires can be done.new plugs can be had. some females are negative and positive the neg. have notched appearance on the rubber backshell. this comes in handy for identifying sender wires on the gauges and on the senders themselves. know what you are buying if you go down that road. a bit of silicone grease eases assembly. this doesnt apply to the early metal back shells. be advised that there is a special turret crimper for installing new connectors. it will make it sooo much easier. you can solder them but its a pain as there seems to be some sort of corrosion due to the nature of the rubber insulation. DONT USE ANY TYPE OF PASTE FLUX NO MATTER HOW ITS LABELED. that stuff contains zinc chloride and will wick up the strands under the insulation causing corrosion later on. use rosin flux. personally if it were me id buy the crimper.