Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:27 pm
Ken and Keith,
I would assume it can. The meter is not really an amp meter. It uses a very low induced voltage signal from the shunt located in the regulator to operate it's pointer. Every once in awhile an absolute inbecile gets one out of the box new and tries to insert it in the circuit at wire #10 which places the full jeep load through an amp meter with no large enough conductor inside to carry the load and poof. It goes back in the box and back on the shelf and voila it looks like a brand new one still in the box.
If your resto is not a trailer queen absolute factory perfect unit I would upgrade to the volt meter. and connect it to a 5 wire #27 spider. I don't care for the transistorized regulators. There is no supporting tech data out there and no spare parts out there for them. That means when they quit you can only buy another. The mechanical regulators when properly maintained last 29 years and more and have the parts and tech data readily available.
Weasel,
I would assume it can. The meter is not really an amp meter. It uses a very low induced voltage signal from the shunt located in the regulator to operate it's pointer. Every once in awhile an absolute inbecile gets one out of the box new and tries to insert it in the circuit at wire #10 which places the full jeep load through an amp meter with no large enough conductor inside to carry the load and poof. It goes back in the box and back on the shelf and voila it looks like a brand new one still in the box.
If your resto is not a trailer queen absolute factory perfect unit I would upgrade to the volt meter. and connect it to a 5 wire #27 spider. I don't care for the transistorized regulators. There is no supporting tech data out there and no spare parts out there for them. That means when they quit you can only buy another. The mechanical regulators when properly maintained last 29 years and more and have the parts and tech data readily available.
Weasel,
It looks like you've confused the #27 spider harness for individual leads that you are now trying to assemble. The #27 spider supplies the power to the oil pressure, water temp and gas gages. The wires for the two dash lites and the high beam light should have been already in the harness you recieved because they come directly from the large connector on the back of the main light switch. The #8 & #9 wires came directly from the regulator in the new harness and the oil pressure and water temp should have been in the firewall harness already as well. I can see that VOM may not have sent the fuel gage sender wire since it runs alone from the tank to the gage.1: once I realy got into the wiring after I received the harness and started installing it I realized that the instrement panel lights and the high beam indicator light did not have the wires with the connectors on them.
2: the high beam low beam switch didnot have the wire with its connector on it.