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Brett,

Where do you intend to insert the external shunt for the amp meter?

Why are you leaving ignition (12), lights (11/15) and horn (25) on wire 10 where they are hot all the time? I would at least move the lights and ignition over to the on side of the switch only. You said you were going to go with a civvy ignition keyed switch which will usually have a battery + (B) position for battery power, an on or Run position for the circuits you want hot only when the key is on, an accessory position (ACC) for circuits you want hot when the vehicle is occupied and the engine is not running and Start (S or ST) position for the power or ground to the starter solenoid.

Finally with all this effort why not upgrade to a one wire Delco alternator in the 60 + amp range?

Wes,

To clarify somethings, my M38 came to me set up at 12V with a keyed switch. I'm putting a stock switch back in and taking out the keyed switch and adding a floor start switch. Its got a genny and regulator already so I'm utlizing what I have. In a nut shell, I'm just redoing all the wiring and adding the switches.
#12 to the coil will be switched being terminated to D of the switch.
I was just going off the stock set up where the horn/lights were always hot. I might move the light circuit to the switched side instead of having it hot.

I'm not well knowleged on the ammeter thing. Don't newer ones come with the shunts built in? My plan is replacing all the guages I have, since they are all mismatched and none are stock.

You must determine which style amp meter you are buying. If it has an internal shunt then all the loads must be wired to it and the wire gauge will need to be at least 10 gauge on both sides.

An amp meter that uses an external shunt will have the heavy load wires attached to the shunt and the two light gauge feed wires attached to the gauge. My preference is an external shunt and I prefer to place the shunt close to the regulator and not hidden up behind the dash.

This is the ancient method of determining the state of your electrical system.

If I were doing this and could not afford the alternator I would use a volt meter to monitor my electrical system and make it's hot feed off the on side of the switch so it is only reading with the key or switch on. You then delete wires # 8 & 9. Interrupt #10 and attach it to the starter solenoid battery terminal so that it runs from the B on the regulator to the Bat terminal on the solenoid and then to the switch/ #11 connection. Wire # 10 would be a good place to also insert a fusable link rated for the total amperage of your system.

Lot simpler and will make it easy to drop in an alternator later on.

A voltage guage in place of the ammeter is an excellent idea.
And thanks for the input, its greatly appreciated. I may just go that route. I know there are probably tons of 2" voltage guages out there, now to find one that matches.
-Brett