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The tiny hole I referred to did not appear to be associated with the cleanout plug or passage you mentioned. It went more into the center of the horn. If I get time tomorrow I'll pull the horn again and try to get a pix.

Thanks as always!

Tim

Matters not. No hole belongs there. That's your cause of the overfilling of the bowl. Plug the hole and if all else is now ok with the carb it should be a solved problem.

check your rubber diaphragms. I had a rich running carb issue and it was a leaking diaphragm. It was leaking around the center metal part of the diaphragm( I don't remember which one!) and not holding fuel back when necessary. Sometimes the cheap kits are just that, cheap parts.

What a journey this has been. I've learned a lot which is a good thing. The fact that my Jeep now runs with this new (to me) carb is even better. Allow me to share with you the final chapter of my saga.

1.) It was obvious that way too much fuel was getting into this carb. It ran well for the time the bowl was filling and then badly as the bowl overfilled. I tested the float valve and it appeared to be working OK. Holding the valve closed, I poured some gas into the fuel line attachment point to see if any seeped out around the plug that seals the passage from the inlet to the float valve. It didn't leak from the plug but it did leak! Using a tiny flex light I discovered a pinhole in the inlet that allowed fuel to leak into the bowl vent area (see photo 1).

I sealed the hole with Permatex Fuel Tank Repair epoxy, hooked the carb up and prepared to congratulate myself for fixing the problem. However, numerous attempts were made to start the Jeep with no success

2.) I pulled the top off the carb (again) and found the bowl to be practically dry, the opposite of my previous problem. Stepping back and thinking about it along with re-reading Chapter 9 of TM9-1826a, I decided that I must have misunderstood the proper way to adjust the float and had it set so that fuel was not being allowed to enter the bowl. Following the instructions in TM9-1826a TO THE LETTER, I adjusted the level to 9/64 inch, which is correct for the YS950 S. I used a 9/64 drill bit for my reference and was careful to hold the horn level and to apply NO pressure to the float while measuring it.

3.) Prepared to be disappointed yet again, I hit the starter and it fired up! I let it warm up for a few minutes noting that it continued to run smoothly, then took it down the road. Not wanting to have to walk too far home, I made a few passes up and down the road in front of my house. When I was satisfied it wasn't going to suddenly die on me, I drove a couple of miles and then turned on a paved road and gave it the gas. The Jeep made 60 mph before I backed off and throughout it all it ran smoothly, no misses, hesitation or the like. Putting it in the barn, I shut it down and then hit the starter and it started right up. I'd like to get 20-30 miles on it before I pronounce it cured but for now, everything is looking good.

Thanks to all who shared advice and suggestions. Now, wish me luck!

Tim

I hope for the best for ya. Sounds like you got it though. Goodluck, it's hard to hold your breath after you fix something thinking its going to act up again. That's where I'm at with my tranny leak.
Brett

Hah! Don't you know it. I'm waiting until spring to track down my tranny leak.... I don't think I could take any more aggravation just now

Tim