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M38A1
Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 2:58 pm
by ocwd
The frame has good repairs to the front and back. The body is rotted and crunched in a few spots. The A1 will not be restored by me. I will be having some fun with it in the desert.
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:56 am
by 53a1
How much money will you have to put into it to make it reliable enough for the desert? Maybe a couple ATVs would be safer to venture out in.
M38A1
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:49 pm
by ocwd
It's really just brakes, tires and a battery. I was thinking of putting 11" drums on the front but haven't decided.
Floor
Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:39 pm
by ocwd
Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:28 pm
by wesk
Why are the hat channels even with the driver's side floor? The A1 floor interupts the hat channels so the tank can sit in it's tank well.
Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:39 pm
by 53a1
Take your time. I worked on mine off and on for a couple years before it was completed.
M38 Floor
Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 6:59 am
by ocwd
These are pictures of my M38 that I am restoring. Dave and I had a brief discussion regarding the M38A1 that I am not restoring but now I am back to my flat fender Jeep restoration. I am sure that this is going to take a couple more years

. I need to get the rotisserie built before I really start working on the body. Until then, it's just some minor scrapping and banging out of dents.
Tub
Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 7:02 pm
by ocwd
Did some work on the rear corner. Dents everywhere.

Tub
Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:47 am
by ocwd
Dropped the tub off at Orange County Sandblasting on Friday 7/20/2012. $300 for the floor, under side, and inside tool and battery box. I did the outside panels with a fiber disk and grinder. The fiber disk removed paint, rust and bondo and was fairly kind to the sheet metal. I used about 8 disks at $4 each. Replacement driver's side floor arrived from Midwest Military a few weeks ago.
Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 9:39 am
by 53a1
Let us know how the sand blasting goes. The guy went to last time got a little agressive but maybe that is the norm. I just don't have enough experience to know. When I got my parts back there was a rough surface finish on the metal. When I primed it I had to apply a few coats and sand them down to get it smooth again. Paint sure sticks well though.
Tub
Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 1:06 pm
by ocwd
These guys did my fenders and grill a couple of years ago. They came out nice.
Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 7:55 am
by 53a1
Dave, how should they look after blasting? Do your parts have a rough surface? I know when I sand blast small parts myself they are smooth. I'm asking because I'm kinda scared to bring my tub to the guy in my area.
Thanks.
Tub
Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:25 am
by ocwd
I wonder if your guy is a bit harsh with stuff. My tub was slightly rough but covered up nicely with one coat of primer. Here it is back from the blaster. I'll get a close up shot today before I finish applying primer to the bottom of the tub.

Tub
Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 11:28 am
by ocwd
Maybe experience has something to do with it also. When I called for an estimate the first question was "is there any undercoating" He told me $300 to $350 on the phone. Then, when I dropped it off he told me closer to $300. When I picked it up, he charged me $250. The guy told me that they have done 50 or so Jeeps over the years.
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 10:19 am
by RICKG
My guy came to me- with a truck mt unit. Did it all, tub, fenders, hood,
windshield frame, tailgate, spare tire mt, seat frames, you name it. 400 bucks.
Good job.