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I'm pretty sure there are 2 different head gaskets for the L134. One is MB-GPW-CJ2A (chain drive motor) and the other is M38-CJ3A (gear drive motor). The first has a large oval shaped water jacket opening between cylinders 2 and 3 and the second doesn't. Maybe it was a cheap-o off-brand gasket because the block side wasn't all metal clad and it's not marked like the Fel-Pro 7285B I bought to replace it.

Ask me how I know. When my head gasket blew after a couple of hundred miles (bought that way from the previous owner who said he built the motor), on disassembly my machinist pointed it out right away. They fit the combustion chambers differently.

Fel-Pro 7285B is a good gasket for the M38. There's no mistaking which side is up (it's marked). The all-metal clad side goes down on the block.
I also bought a Best Gasket 555 all-copper gasket. Going to flip a coin come install time.

Can post photos if need be.

And I'm pretty sure I saw those guys in the KW video put torque on those studs when they set them in the block. And the caption in the video says they did.

New HG.



Longer head studs. One or two still a little short but it is what it is.



I used Brian's 2 cents worth of advice, added a few coins and bought this nice old box that was wrapped up when I was a little guy in anticipation of a future foolish senior moment.

Nice find. That Bendix-Scintilla switch PN 10-34880 with it's dual plug receptacles was used on MC10001 thru MC35387 which came with a separate harness to the rear lights. It's repair instructions are found in our downloads section as TM 9-1825E.

Did I put the felt in backarss?

I believe you did!

So, I should do the side pieces like I did the top ....
with the felt on the outside edge and the staple ends bent against the inner edge?

Also. Does this material look correct for an M38?

yes, staples towards inside. my m38 had originally black coated felt-like material. It was well rotted and torn before i restored the jeep.. I used the common replacement stuff, but covered it with a liquid rubber that comes in a tube container, I found at a hardware store that's used to coat tool handles. Came out real nice, good enough to fool some "experts".

The old roasted & toasted radiator ‘felt’ material that was on my M38 looked like these gray replacement pieces I bought but I do see threads/posts that describe a rubber-like coating.

I will be correcting the staple mistake and am up for whatever is a good choice concerning a coating. There are sprays like the black gutter gook you see on the Tv ads..... maybe better options.

As I close in on reassembly there are many things that would be nice to get right the first time......
I have a list

Added a 4' section of 2"x 2" box to my floor crane and gave it a go.
Body/frame lined up with bolts/washers in place. Will add the cushions and nuts later.

That’s great Don!

Wow Don! That's huge progress!
You put that tub on the frame all by your lonesome?

Easily done with an overhead hoist that is on a trolley system to help with accurate positioning both lengthwise and laterally. A bit more PITA when only a cherry picker is available.

“You put that tub on the frame all by your lonesome?” Ron.

My brother stopped by during the process. He does some kind of industrial certification audit thingy ‘work’ for extra retirement money.... which means he is good at spotting problems .... not so much with solutions.

Most folks I know are busy making money, or spending money, or old, or have a bum appendage, or have no interest in jeep resto..... so it can get lonely at the barn.

I don’t get many volunteers .... but EVERYONE wants to RIDE in the jeep when finished.

Ok, I'll take that to mean you did it all by your lonesome --- with your brother supervising.
Good on ya!

Naugha wrote: .... but EVERYONE wants to RIDE in the jeep when finished.

Just make sure you set the fare rate high enough.
A six-pack per mile (drivers choice) sounds about right.