willysmjeeps.com

Spent yesterday working on the front fenders.

Sanded some more, and scuffed some front grill items for paint.

when i put this patch in, I didnt do a great job. I am leaving it this way. If I ever do another freshup on this jeep, maybe ill fix it then. But I am just gonna enjoy it for now!

Had only a few hours today to do stuff on the jeep. Driving from where I live to Virginia Beach VA is a chore! So I wasted about 4 hours of my life down there today.

Got home, worked on putting the footman loops everywhere ( and 3 extra on the rear floor under where the seat would go)

I tried looking for standard style screws, but could only come up with phillips style. I bought a bunch of them and will just deal with that.

Got dark on me last night quick! Just a coat of epoxy on it after I did some more bare metal and filler work. Trust me, there is hardly any filler on here, and you will see the dents, dings and maybe a high spot here and there.

I may throw some grey lusterless paint on here today. The weather is perfect and I am still in my recoat window for the epoxy.

The first photo shows a lot of shadows- I have work lights strung all around the backyard (its the poopin field lights as Ive called it- I have 3 dogs)

Hi April,
I used these 10-24x1/2 slotted flat head screws on my footman loops https://www.ebay.com/itm/163896389663?h ... Sw3F5dm4dp

and I've got 46 left over from the 100-pack that you're welcome to if interested. If you stick a $5 bill in an envelope to me they'll appear in your mailbox. Let me know.

This supplier is pretty good about having hard-to-find old school slotted screws for reasonable prices.

Ron, if you aren’t gonna need them, send it.

For those wondering the difference in the color.
The lighter grey is Transtar Epoxy Primer.
The darker- is the blue grey navy lusterless.



my redneck windchime.


Underside of the hood is painted.
I am not going to do any dent removal off the top side of the hood. It has character.










Remember I added extra footman loops for my jeep.- I know it isn't factory.






Cowl has a tiny dent aft of the battery box. I'm cool with it- it's cool with me.







Since at the time of painting- I didn't have the "correct" slotted head screws- here we are Philips.



There are some nibs I need to scuff out. There is a giant pain in the fantail OAK TREE above the build. I will need to quickly cover this before I depart on my deployment (in a few weeks??) We blew up our emergency diesel generator Cat D348 engine and generator bearing seized. Pulled that crankshaft aft into the rear main seal and broke the block. Had run away a few times and just shredded the con rod bearings and crank bearings. There was no saving this thing- Imagine a monster that only gets fed once and a while- that's this generator. My sister ship blew theirs apart the same week- blew a giant hole in the block- same thing- run away engine and all emergency shut downs did not work.

I've been away awhile and just came upon this build. Some real git'erdone going on here. I'll be following along and cheering your successes. Love the windchime!

RonD2 wrote:Hi April,

and I've got 46 left over from the 100-pack that you're welcome to if interested.

because that's the way stuff gets done, right Ron?

Right on! They went in the mail this morning (Monday), ETA is Friday.

April's work sure is motivating and nice to see --- even if I did cause a back-track to paint screws.

Had to rush home from work, get a few attachments off, the flex plate and clutch off so I could take the L134 off to the machine shop before they closed.



They are doing all the work while I’m deployed this time.



Broke exhaust bolts, broke various bolts and even found my exhaust manifold was crumbling.

Hi April,
And your engine lift plate isn't M38 style (looks modified or broken). The base plate is missing one of the 2 lift eye-hooks (supposed to have 2, different balance points for lifting just the motor, or the motor, transmission, transfer case combination, a.k.a. the "power pack").

Here's one: https://shop.midwestmilitary.com/produc ... ift-plate/

The plate bolts down to the head under 3 longer than the other 12 head studs. Is your motor genuine M38 (with MC or RMC prefix serial number)? If yes, it's supposed to have all 15 head studs with nuts, not head bolts.

I hope your machine shop knows the Willys L134 motor.

Just kibuttsing from the cheap seats....

Stamped on the block.
MC 91518

Ah yes, in your signature block. Sorry about that!

No worries. Previous owner I bet just pulled the studs and put bolts in instead.

The machine shop said they are very aware of these engines.

Not at all uncommon to see all the studs swapped our for bolts on the L134's. Common failure of the original M38 lift plate loosing the rear lift eye when overloaded or having it bend then just cut it off.