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Working on the brakes too. I was going to rebuild the cylinders but the backs were totally rusted solid so I'll just replace them. I'll re-grease everything before I put it back together.

Were you able to balance your tires by using weights only on the inside of the rim?

I had my tires mounted at the tire shop. They balanced with weights like you said. Cost me $20 per tire to mount.

Looking great!

Sunday was a long day. Brakes done, fuel lines "done", Jeep started and running. A few trips around the block on Sunday then a long drive Monday night. Wiper motors don't work, fuel gauge doesn't work, fuel lines leaked all over the garage, horn doesn't work. Brakes work nicely so that's a plus. Headlights are nice and bright. Looks like the blackout tail lights work but I need to check the blackout headlight.

I've put about 250 miles on my Jeep so far. It runs and starts great. Got the horn and stop light working. I guess my NOS fuel gauge and sender are both trash. I need to order a new fuel gauge but I have a repro sender.

I've been having brake problems. It stops fine but pulls hard to the right. The front right drum seams to be doing all of the work. Tried a few times to adjust all of the drums evenly, replaced a few of the old brake lines on the front axle but still having issues. I noticed a difference after replacing the lines and bleeding the system. I will look at the alignment and steering next. The steering is very sloppy. The front and rear axles were rebuilds from a crate so the shoes are pretty old. I didn't see any fluid on the shoes and the lines don't appear to be leaking. Lots of brake dust from the old shoes. I also noticed that I can't get a feeler gauge between the shoe and drum after driving and stopping for a while. Not sure what that's about.

Wiper motors still don't work. It doesn't seam like there is vacuum in the lines. I think I have a vacuum gauge with a rubber stopper. I'll try to check vacuum at the fuel pump.

Make sure to check the ground. I ran a special wire to the body of the jeep and cleaned the contact points on the ground wire to the housing of the sender and to the jeep.
Without a good ground the fuel gauge and sender will not work.

Brake are automatically adjusted every time you step on the pedal as there won't be any pressure built up in the system until all of the shoes are in full contact, so adjustment shouldn't be your issue.

Is it safe to assume the Jeep rolls straight and even when you step on the clutch and let the Jeep roll free..nothing is dragging or pulling?

Did you inspect both left and right drums/shoes?

Mike B

Thanks Ryan. I tried grounding to the frame and to the negative battery terminal with no luck. I'm assuming I have a good ground on my gauge panel since the other gauges work.

I took all 4 brake drums off and inspected the shoes and replaced all of the cylinders before I started the Jeep for the first time. Next time I drive the Jeep I will see if it wanders on it's own.

Since I've never worked on brakes before, the adjustment is the likely culprit. I did use a feeler gauge and adjust them properly.

The front only has one adjustment for each shoe. It's not like the back with two adjustments per shoe.

I tightened up the drag link and the bell crank and the steering slop is gone. The steering is pretty tight now. Everything is lubed too. I missed a couple of the grease fittings the first go around. One thing that concerns me is that the locking nut on the bell crank was pretty loose. I’m not sure if I didn’t tighten it when I installed the bell crank or if it loosened up. I’m wondering if it would be better to replace the locking nut with a more modern nylon locking nut? I’ll check the nut after driving it for a while.

The Jeep does wander a bit to the right while driving. It still pulls to the right while braking. What’s the best resource for doing the alignment?

I got the gas can and spare tire mounted a few weeks ago.

Here's a post on alignment: http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php? ... hlight=toe

Thanks Ron.

I tried grounding to the frame and to the negative battery terminal with no luck. I'm assuming I have a good ground on my gauge panel since the other gauges work.

Keep in mind the internal wiring of the four system monitoring gauges in your instrument cluster is different. They each function a bit different then their neighbors. One common function for three of them is the need for a good gauge housing ground to enable the meter's needle drive. IE for water temp the gauge accuracy is controlled by the ground that runs from the gauge all the way to the sender however the needle will not drive to indicate that value unless the gauge case has a very good path to ground. In our efforts to clean up, restore and over repaint we have somewhat disabled these grounds. The gauge case must have bare metal contacting the gauge cluster frame's round opening which also must have bare metal. The quarter turn fastener must have a ring of bare metal contacting the hole in each corner of the cluster which must also have a contact edge of bare metal. Then the contact latching portion of the quarter turn fastener must have a bare metal surface that makes a good contact with the receptacle's bare metal surface. And that receptacle must have a bare metal surface contacting it's riveted bracket. Finally the rivets, bracket and dash must all share a bare metal surface. Any single contact surface with excess paint or corrosion can have a bad effect on your gauge operations.

I know this post is long winded but it is meant to show you how many ways you can loose the needed grounds for your gauges to operate correctly. The hardest point to control quality of grounding contact is the 4 quarter turn fasteners and their receptacles. The way Ryan overcame this area problem was to fasten a ground wire to a bare metal hole in the cluster and to a bare metal hole in the firewall. It is cheap insurance and only requires you to insure there is bare metal on gauge housing contacting bare metal in the cluster hole.

That's good info. I will use Ron's method. I did leave the back of my gauge panel unpainted. Does the contact between the mounting bracket and back of the panel make a good ground or just the back of the gauge bezel to front of panel?