Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 8:50 am
Yes it is! Congratulations.
Hey Furley,
Check my pm.
Page 3 of 4
Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 9:22 am
Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 9:30 am
Thanks. Didn't know to look out for them. Did you make it to College Station yet?4x4M38 wrote:Hey Furley,
Check my pm.
Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 9:40 am
No I have not. Did get some prices on a few things.
You can set up your account here to be notified by email
if you get a pm.
You can set up your account here to be notified by email
if you get a pm.
Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 1:18 am
My fuel tank finally came in. It will take some time to strip, prime and paint it. I also have a Por15 kit coming for the inside. Thanks to Brian for finding it on ebay and sending it my way.
I hope to have it all done within the next two weeks before football season, but that may be wishful thinking.
Has anyone made their own fuel tank tie downs? It seems like some simple flat bar fabrication.
I hope to have it all done within the next two weeks before football season, but that may be wishful thinking.
Has anyone made their own fuel tank tie downs? It seems like some simple flat bar fabrication.
Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 6:06 am
Hi Furley!
Congrats!
Remember, don't sandblast that tank if you don't have to.
The straps are 1/8 x 1" and some thinner stuff, probably 18 gauge
because they had it? I can get you some dims from the long one
but am missing the short left one. Bretto suggested getting the
strips and tank installed and fab one up to fit.
The factory anti-squeak is pretty porous. I'm using 1/8" neoprene
for longevity and to keep the moisture retention down.
Take care,
Congrats!
Remember, don't sandblast that tank if you don't have to.
The straps are 1/8 x 1" and some thinner stuff, probably 18 gauge
because they had it? I can get you some dims from the long one
but am missing the short left one. Bretto suggested getting the
strips and tank installed and fab one up to fit.
The factory anti-squeak is pretty porous. I'm using 1/8" neoprene
for longevity and to keep the moisture retention down.
Take care,
Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 9:13 am
I was thinking the same thing on the anti squeak pads. Unless I was going for a full resto, there are modern materials that make more sense in places like this.
4x4M38 wrote:Hi Furley!
Congrats!
Remember, don't sandblast that tank if you don't have to.
The straps are 1/8 x 1" and some thinner stuff, probably 18 gauge
because they had it? I can get you some dims from the long one
but am missing the short left one. Bretto suggested getting the
strips and tank installed and fab one up to fit.
The factory anti-squeak is pretty porous. I'm using 1/8" neoprene
for longevity and to keep the moisture retention down.
Take care,
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 9:36 am
I bought a fuel pump from EBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/300844203386 ) and received it. The lever doesn't seem to move very much. Is there some sort of release pin or something I am missing?
Also, should I cap or leave the vacuum tubes open since I don't yet have wipers to run it to?
Also, should I cap or leave the vacuum tubes open since I don't yet have wipers to run it to?
Man v. Broken Bolt
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 10:17 pm
Well, I have stared into the eyes of defeat and conceded the battle.
So, as I mentioned earlier, I decided to go back to a mechanical fuel pump. The previous owner had employed an electric pump to pull from the Jerry cans he was using as a fuel tank. I figured since I was restoring the rest of the fuel system to its intended configuration, I would do the same with the pump.
I started out with the readily available, but not quite as convenient, standard bolts to secure the pump. The right one went in with no problems, but the left one got started fine but hung up before it was fully set. Given the confined space I thought maybe I just couldn't get a good wrench on it. So, I opted for an original bolt with the extended head, thinking it would secure better.
It also started fine, but, like its more modern cousin, seemed to hang up before it was fully set. I didn't think I was getting much torque on it, but with the torsion combined with the moment arm provided by the extended head, I managed to break it off in the bolt hole.
I consulted several people and received some pretty consistent advice: get an extractor bit set with pilot bits in lieu of the speed outs; use heat; use break free.
I followed the advice, but had trouble extracting the bolt. The bit was biting, but nothing could break it free. I finally removed the fender to get better working room. Normally, that would have been simple with the 8 or so bolts, but previous owner welded the side step plate to the fender.
After removing the fender, I could access the hole better. It seemed like my pilot hole may have been off center, so I re drilled to get a more centered bite with the extractor. I seemed to do that successfully, , but then the extractor bit still was biting on the bolt, but not extracting. In the process of trying over and over again, I managed to break the extractor bit in the hole as well.
At this point, I don't think there is much I can do unless I want to pull the engine. I am just going to put back that nice, modern, electric pump until I have some other reason to pull the engine.
So, as I mentioned earlier, I decided to go back to a mechanical fuel pump. The previous owner had employed an electric pump to pull from the Jerry cans he was using as a fuel tank. I figured since I was restoring the rest of the fuel system to its intended configuration, I would do the same with the pump.
I started out with the readily available, but not quite as convenient, standard bolts to secure the pump. The right one went in with no problems, but the left one got started fine but hung up before it was fully set. Given the confined space I thought maybe I just couldn't get a good wrench on it. So, I opted for an original bolt with the extended head, thinking it would secure better.
It also started fine, but, like its more modern cousin, seemed to hang up before it was fully set. I didn't think I was getting much torque on it, but with the torsion combined with the moment arm provided by the extended head, I managed to break it off in the bolt hole.
I consulted several people and received some pretty consistent advice: get an extractor bit set with pilot bits in lieu of the speed outs; use heat; use break free.
I followed the advice, but had trouble extracting the bolt. The bit was biting, but nothing could break it free. I finally removed the fender to get better working room. Normally, that would have been simple with the 8 or so bolts, but previous owner welded the side step plate to the fender.
After removing the fender, I could access the hole better. It seemed like my pilot hole may have been off center, so I re drilled to get a more centered bite with the extractor. I seemed to do that successfully, , but then the extractor bit still was biting on the bolt, but not extracting. In the process of trying over and over again, I managed to break the extractor bit in the hole as well.
At this point, I don't think there is much I can do unless I want to pull the engine. I am just going to put back that nice, modern, electric pump until I have some other reason to pull the engine.
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 7:28 am
Hey Furley,
Sorry for your troubles. I had a stuck fitting in the head. Following advice
here I got a torch and heated only the fitting dull red, then dabbed it with
a wet rag. Had to do that several times. You are expanding and shrinking
the stuck fitting which breaks the bond between it and the home material.
Then the liquid wrench. It took me a while, but I was finally able to work it
just a little. Once it starts to move you are home free.
There are several threads here on removing stuck bolts and fittings.
Don't give up. After all how are you going to secure that opening as is?
take care,
Sorry for your troubles. I had a stuck fitting in the head. Following advice
here I got a torch and heated only the fitting dull red, then dabbed it with
a wet rag. Had to do that several times. You are expanding and shrinking
the stuck fitting which breaks the bond between it and the home material.
Then the liquid wrench. It took me a while, but I was finally able to work it
just a little. Once it starts to move you are home free.
There are several threads here on removing stuck bolts and fittings.
Don't give up. After all how are you going to secure that opening as is?
take care,
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 8:05 am
I was all in on getting it out, but now that the extractor bit is broken off in the bolt, I just don't know there is anything I can do.4x4M38 wrote:
Don't give up. After all how are you going to secure that opening as is?
take care,
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 8:52 am
Tow or trailer the jeep with the fender off to your nearest machine shop.
New Photos Up
Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 6:10 pm
I posted a few new photos showing some progress. I tried to post more, but they get hung up during the upload. And, I can't seem to do it from my ipad.
Anyway:
all brake lines and master cylinder have been replaced
driver's seat is in and bottom cushion upholstered. I used some of my old Army duffel bags for the material
Air cleaner assembly restored and connection to carb replaced
fuel tank and pickup all restored/painted, sender added
Fuel lines all replaced
Sticking with electric fuel pump until i have another reason to pull the block and get the broken bolt and extractor bit removed
Waiting on parking brake cable and clevis to finish that up
Still trying to figure out where to find a 1/2"-13 windshield pivot bolt. Apparently my brackets were retapped bigger than spec. I would rather keep the original brackets and find a single bolt.
Working on passenger seat
Once brakes are bled and parking brake operable, I am ready for a road test. Engine cranks right away. There is a little smoke, but I havent let it run more than a minute or so.
_________________
Furley
1951 M38
Amateur Tinkerer
Anyway:
all brake lines and master cylinder have been replaced driver's seat is in and bottom cushion upholstered. I used some of my old Army duffel bags for the material Air cleaner assembly restored and connection to carb replaced fuel tank and pickup all restored/painted, sender added Fuel lines all replaced Sticking with electric fuel pump until i have another reason to pull the block and get the broken bolt and extractor bit removed 
Waiting on parking brake cable and clevis to finish that up Still trying to figure out where to find a 1/2"-13 windshield pivot bolt. Apparently my brackets were retapped bigger than spec. I would rather keep the original brackets and find a single bolt. Working on passenger seat Once brakes are bled and parking brake operable, I am ready for a road test. Engine cranks right away. There is a little smoke, but I havent let it run more than a minute or so.
_________________
Furley
1951 M38
Amateur Tinkerer
Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 10:10 pm
At any rate it is progress!
Your photo file sizes might be excessively large. Make sure they are less than 400K.
Your photo file sizes might be excessively large. Make sure they are less than 400K.
Posted: Mon May 01, 2017 8:26 am
That did it. I sized them down to under 1MB and they uploaded just fine.wesk wrote:At any rate it is progress!
Your photo file sizes might be excessively large. Make sure they are less than 400K.