willysmjeeps.com

I have found the odd ball drum.

Brake Drum for 9 X 1 3/4" brakes.

Fits:

41-45 MB
41-45 GPW
46-49 CJ2A
49-53 CJ3A

Doesn't matter anymore. I located a NOS drum and hub.

I'll trade this one off to my civvy flat fender fanatic.

Thanks for the help.

On to the next chore. I don't really think of a roll cage or a 12V conversion (if done properly) as a Bubba job. But I found a whopper underneath....details at 5!

When you get ready to sell that old Model 41 Hub and drum look up going prices. This is the hub used from Willys Jeep Parts: 640864-R/B WHEEL HUB, REAR, LEFT OR RIGHT. THESE HUBS HAVE BEEN BEAD BLASTED AND CHECKED FOR CRACKS AND BENDS. CJ-2A/3A SW/SD FC-150 $ 86.50



Looks like there are more subtle differences besides the 3 drum retainer screw holes.

Thank you for the heads up!

Mark

Got the ol girl out on the road for the first real drive I have had with it.


Brakes work, but pull a little to the left under hard braking. I'll bust out the bleeder kit again, then the feeler gauges. It's close, but i want bester.

Runs steady at 180 degrees up and down hills, 40 lbs of Oil Pressure. 14.5 volts.

Grandpa installed a Warn overdrive. I quite like it. It's hilly around here and using second and second overdrive is the way to go!

What really surprised me is this little Jeep does not have a single rattle, none. I'm kind of shocked, but in a good way.

Nice!

Got some good progress this weekend!

Some visible, some not so much.

Invisible:

Wiring:

People who do not know how to do wiring, should not do wiring!!! I just need the system to work reliably and safely until I am ready to convert back to the 24V system in one fell swoop. I fixed what was wrong and replaced what wasn't safe:

No brake lights. Crappy splices, installed new wiring. Then they only worked if the ignition and headlights were on. Fixed.

Turn signals (what turn signals?). rebuilt controller, corrected numerous wiring errors. There is a reason why the controller has color coded wires.... fixed.

Ammeter only showed charge. Corrected wiring, fixed.

Discarded cigar lighter and wiring. Really? Gone.

Removed funky "adjustavolt" nonsense for fuel gauge and CB. Removed all CB wiring and coax.

Steering:

Adjusted steering box. Found bad draglink cover and seal, replaced both.

Then on to visible.

Targets, CB antenna, funky spare tire carrier, top bows and rear fender damage. Ready for bumperettes. My M38 pintle came in the mail Saturday. A friend who knows these fairly well says that the M38 is the only vehicle fitted with a pintle that does NOT have the cotter pin or even a hole for the cotter pin. Is this true or just myth?




Get some new pics up directly.

he's correct about the m38 not having a cotter pin but, don't know if it's the only vehicle...
where you located ? looks like a California plate on the '72 Chevy in the background...

Im in San Diego.

Here is the worst Bubba mod I found on the Jeep.

Bubba's drag racing cutout! Hot-#@$%@!!!!

My original rotating pintle on my 54 M37 had no hole for a pin either.

Now that I look, my unmolested 52 M37 has a pintle with no cotter pin hole either.

Havent posted much on this project lately. So many projects and so little time.

We just had our Socal MVPA meet. It was a lot of fun and I acquired some of the stuff Ive been hunting for:
5 Military Jeep wheels, 16" with the additional small holes.
M38 specific air cleaner mounts.
Another very early distributor with cable and filter (5$ !!)
shovel mount front.
external resistor gauges, set of three.
Ammeter (2)
NOS oil pressure senders
Another early two plug light switch.

Well worth the trip.

Just a heads up, The 16" Willys wheels with the small 1/8" hole came in two flavors.

Military 16" x 4 1/2"

Civilian Willys Truck 16" x 5"

Both are identical from the side views with that small 1/8" hole but the truth lies in the between the bead seat rim widths.

I will have to check that width when they get broken down. They all came off of military trailers that were being rendered, so they could be either width I guess.