willysmjeeps.com

Perhaps he tacked it on to hold it still so he could install the bolts.

Who knows. Looks like someone put a clutch in it and only installed about half the bellhousing bolts. Dirt dobbers filled the extra holes in.

Little Help?

Album updated.

Has anyone seen a rebuild tag like the one above? Can someone help me decipher it?

Thanks.

Maybe one of the following:
Memphis TN
Miesau Germany

That's good info. Sounds like I still have some room if I need it.

P.S. Thanks for the wealth of information provided here. I'm going to attempt the rebuild myself and expect to have many more questions.

Where does everyone shop for their engine rebuild kits? I need to start looking around for the best deal. Here's hoping my crank is ok.

Generally the more Jeep specific the vendor the higher the price.

The MV and Jeep specific vendors will often point out by being specialized they can offer better service.

If you have mastered the jeep parts book, know what you need and how to ascertain quality levels you can do this for yourself.

So I would advise getting your exact needs written down. Research the numbers. Then shop all the normal sources from your local parts house through all the vendors and make your own educated choice.

Very well stated Wes (as always). I have found that to be the case while researching part #'s. Having this specialized company's (not mentioning name) catalog is great for reference but I will not buy from them. Too overpriced. I've been using it to highlight the parts I need as I go along and will research, when the time comes, to find the best choice as to who to buy from.

Well, I finally got the head pulled tonight. Looks like I'm going to have to have pistons. Number 4 has a chunk out of the top.

I was surprised. If the rebuild tag is current, the cylinders have never been bored. However, there is hardly a noticable ridge at the top of my cylinders. Mostly carbon build up actually. I got my fleabay reamer today and I should have a set of gauges showing up any day now.

Cleaned the area around my engine serial number. Found an "R". Looks like I've got a replacement engine.

Finally got around to pulling the pistons. Looks like a valve job is in order. Cylinder number one is at its limits or over on every measurement I take, valve free play, rod end play, etc. The valve springs are all wore to the point of needing replacement. Piston #3 had a broken ring (the top one). Piston #4 is toast. It's got a pretty decent chunk out of the top and side that extends beyond the first ring groove. Hopefully, I can get the crank out in the next couple of days. I'm a little nervous that it may have to be replaced. I guess I need to get some more pictures up.

End play on my crank is like 0.022"!

The shim and thrust washer don't have any sign of major wear. In everyone else's experience, how much free play has been taken out by just new bearings? (I'm going to pull and measure the crank tonight.)

And, whats the timing gear on the cam made of? I was expecting to pull it off and have to struggle not to smash my toes. I was surprised when I found it wasn't steel.

The new bearing will change the crank end play. I think spec is no more than .006. The best I could get mine is .010 without facing the crank. Here's what bubba used to shim mine.



I think running too much clearance the crank starts to slam the bearing face and will degenerate faster.

Install new parts and recondition crank, shim it then check it. If it's still out of spec you need to have your crank faced.

Thanks. I've never done a rebuild before, so any info helps. I'm going slow and measuring everything twice. Seems like everything is just barely within tolerance except for on cylinder #1. The rod endplay was out there too. I guess I should start thinking about a new rod?