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One of the top items on a list of must haves when rebuilding or restoring any vehicle is an air compressor and air tools! A suitable minimum compressor and 1/2" dr. impact and wizzer is less than $300. And worth 100 times that after a year of using it.

I actualy picked up an electric impact for $35 on sale at christmas, its usualy 135. Canadian tire does some awesome sales now and then. Works great and never runs out of air. If you can get a quality one they are good.

I have a $300 + Snap-on electric impact and it's ok for light work but would never be able to tackle a properly torqued companion flange nut or rear axle nut.

Mine is really good, stuff I couldn't move with my five foot bar came off with it no problem.

You do realize that if you applied your full weight (say 180 Lbs) to the use of your 5 foot bar you would be applying 900 Ft Lbs of torque. I find it tough to believe that a $35 electric impact is capable of that figure. It would take a 1 1/2" drive pneumatic impact to deal with that much torque. What is the make & model of that impact you have?

this one
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6 ... ?locale=en
I have never done the math but I am much closer to 300lbs. Most things move when I lean on them. I think it is more the impact aspect that got things moving than a straight torque application.

I see it's posted max torque is 240 Ft Lbs. so I doubt it does any better than a 2 foot breaker bar with a healthy middle aged man pulling on it. The hammer effect will help a bit and that can just as easily be accomplished with a 1 Lb hand drilling hammer and a brass punch whilst turning the nut.

At 300 the applied torque at the other end of your 5 foot bar would be 1500 Ft Lbs and would break the shaft on that little one inch threaded shaft end.

I do break more than my fair share of bolts, and I don't have to use the bar to do it. I have also busted out the sides of sockets and snapped wrenches. But I am sure you have busted a few tools over the years as well.

So, going over the whole thing with Novak, who sold me the rebuilt Dana 18, their guy says they must have given me a civilian case, and that is why I am having all the trouble. I need a civilian speedometer driven gear, and they want to know how many teeth are on that drive gear. Does that sound right to you guys?

The rear output case cap which contains all the speedo gear parts is the same on the CJ2A, CJ3A, CJV35, M38, CJ3B, M38A1, M170, CJ5, CJ6.

Is the twin stick pivot a hex head bolt or flat head pin?




If you have this hex head pivot bolt with a grease fitting in it you have a military transfer case.

I think the XFER Rear Bearing Cap (Item P in picture below) on the M38A1 is different from the M38 (and similar configs) due to the differences in hand brake design.

Yes, their part numbers are different in my list above. But that has no bearing on the bushings, sleeves and gears used for the speedo.

I got ya. I should have read it more thoroughly.

......no bearing on the bushings....

sort of a pun in there

It looks like I have the military version. Does that make their whole argument invalid? They basically said that the military waterproof sleeve not fitting with the speedometer driven gear in place means they must have sent me a civilian transfer case.

That's a civilian case. There's no hex head on the end of the pin with the zerk. You can also see the lock screw for the plain civilian pivot pin on the right side of the levers.

The M38 and the CJ's used the same cap on the rear of the transfer case and both the regular sleeve and the waterproof sleeve fit that cap. So I'd say they are not sure at all what issues you have.