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Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 11:27 am
by wadefreedomvehicles
Ok thanks.
This is what my plug looked like. Also how do I get the seat and spring and all that stuff out of the drag link? or does that need to come out in order for me to have to disconnect the drag link from the pitman?

Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 12:00 pm
by wesk
The plug was the only piece that is threaded. Spray clean the socket with brake cleaners and using a hooked pick pry each piece out. Keep in order and compare the illustration I posted above. The spring if positioned correctly should have popped right out.
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 12:36 pm
by wadefreedomvehicles
Huh ok, I will work on it. Thanks.
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 12:48 pm
by wadefreedomvehicles
So i just took the seat out and the spring didn't pop out...
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 1:09 pm
by wesk
Which end of the drag link are we discussing? Forward or aft?

Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 1:19 pm
by wadefreedomvehicles
Aft. I am trying to disconnect the arm that connects to the gearbox fro the draglink.
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 2:53 pm
by wadefreedomvehicles
I finally got it disconnected and out. Now I just have to disconnect the electrical and then I can get the tub off.
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 3:18 pm
by wadefreedomvehicles
How do I remove the hand brake handle from the tub. I would like to get the tub off today.
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:31 pm
by wadefreedomvehicles
Got it off. The tub is off. Now I will either start working on the engine and stuff or the body.
Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 7:10 pm
by wadefreedomvehicles
Lately been working on the Jeep again, it just kinda sat for a time. I have now started to work on it again and almost have everything I need off the start prepping to get the tub sandblasted. After I get it blasted I will paint it and then start working on the frame and engine. I am probably going to rebuild the engine. Didn't want to have to, but it is looking that way. So yeah, just an update.
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 5:41 am
by Bretto
Im sure with you being back in school, things took a slow down but that would be expected. Keep at it.
I need to get over your way and check it out.
Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:29 pm
by wadefreedomvehicles
Almost got the Head off of the engine. Just got to get one more stud out. It is really really stuck. An tips or advice would be much appreciated.
Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 11:28 pm
by wadefreedomvehicles
Ok so after taking a long break on the Jeep for holidays and what not, today I finally got out there with my dad and together we took the head off and pulled the engine off the chassis. I feel like we are making much progress. We have now decided that we are going to do a full engine rebuild on it. Soon we will be stripping the engine all down and getting it ready to be sent to the machine shop.
Also Does anyone know if NAPA sells a engine rebuild kit for the engine? If so could you post the NAPA Part Number? I have the original L-134 engine. I want to check prices and quality.
Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 3:26 pm
by wadefreedomvehicles
So we were going to rebuild my engine that came with it, and then an engine popped up for sale for a really good deal, so we bought it and got it shipped to my house. Now we are going to prep the frame and chassis and then install the new engine and then do all the body work. Question though, the distributor on it is not a 24 volt military style distributor, it is a WWII type distributor, I still want to keep my system 24 volt, so can I keep that distributor on it, and get a 24 volt coil and stick in there, or what? Any help would be much appreciated.
Also what is a good way to tell if I need to replace a gear in the transmission, or do some maintenance on it, without taking it all apart? Same with the T Case.[/img]
Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 9:25 pm
by wesk
Wade,
It looks like you have not been getting a lot of responses. Let me try to help a bit here. If you want a 24 volt ignition then don't waste your time & money jury rigging something up. Just buy a used 24 volt distributor and rebuild it.
If you feel you absolutely have to do it the hard way then find a properly rated ballast resistor to use with a stock 12 V coil.
The only good way to evaluate a tranny gear set without a teardown inspection is to operate it in a jeep. At this point you are between a rock and hard place. Most likely if you do the peek thru the lid and if looks ok it must be ok act then you will be very unhappy when it lets you down on the road and you end up pulling it out again. It only takes once to lay on your back under a complete jeep and pull a transfer & tranny out to teach you to never put one in unless it's 100%.