willysmjeeps.com

I a still trying to get an ammeter reading. The system is charging correctly, but we seem to be getting 26+ volts on both wire number 8 and wire number 9 going to the ammeter. Should this not be the case as one should be less then the other in order to provide a differential to make an ammeter move?
The wires lead into the voltage regulator with a four-pin connector. I assume the two small wires in this connector are the #8 and #9 wires. Could there be a problem in the voltage regulator? Can we test this by taking any readings from the pin plug-in locations on the screw on connector at the voltage regulator?

If you have solid state regulator, the ammeter will not function. It does not have the shunt bypass for the ammeter and you must use the voltmeter.
I think this may be your case.
John

Original mechanical regulator had the shunt connecting wires 8 & 9


The top half is the transistorized regulator. Note that NC means "No Connection".

John
How do I determine if it is a solid state regulator? I will be looking at it this morning. If it is, I will get a voltmeter from one of the suppliers. Does the voltmeter still connect the same with the #8 and #9 wire?
It is always nice to start to close in on solving the problem.
Thank you

John
I'm sorry that I failed to scroll down past your message for the diagrams.
Thanks again
Mike D

John
Here is the data off of the voltage regulator
Mil Part #11631857
Nat'l Stock No. 2920-00-800-7218

I look at ArmyJeepParts and they have a volt meter that indicates 24V and one- wire. $95. I assume either wire #8 or #9 would go to it or would we bring both wire together on the single wire?
Peter DeBella has voltmeter for $65 but lists as quality reproduction.
Does the data suggest this is a solid state unit? I got voltage reading off of both wires so I suspect this new approach should work.
Any comments will be appreciated
Mike D

Mike,

The diagrams are from WES not John. You connect the positive wire from the new volt meter to the #27 spider and you make sure you run a ground lead from the new voltmeter to the firewall. You cap # 8 & #9.




Original Auto Lite mechanical regulator


Delco Remy replacement mechanical regulator


These transistorized regulators are only 3" tall.


Transistorized


Transistorized

Yep, I have the transitorized model
Going to order voltmeter now
Will report later
Mike D

where do I look for the #27 spider wire?

Mike,

I sure hope you are reading my posts as well as Johns!

DO NOT USE 8 & 9 with the voltmeter. They are always hot as long as the batteries are connected. You will be back here complaining about batteries running down when she sits. Follow my instructions in MY post above and connect the volt meter plus to the spider wire set 27! This way the meter is only on when the master switch is on,

Right here:



You will have to add a splice to the #27 spider since it originally came with only 4 leads (power in, gas gauge, oil press gauge & water temp gauge. Or you can bu a 5 wire spider from John or Saturn.

The 5 wire with metal Douglas connectors is getting hard to find. At Saturn you can get the 5 wire with no connectors for $12 or with rubber Packard connectors for $12 and just convert.

Wes
I am not familiar with the vendor "saturn" My search came up with Saturn cars. Can you point me towards them?
Thanks
Mike D

http://www.saturnsurplus.com/

specifically: http://www.saturnsurplus.com/electrical/wire.htm

Item: http://saturnsurplus.com/electrical/11418.htm

Voltmeter in and functioning well. The existing spider wiring had the extra lead. Nice to have all the guages functioning.
Thanks for patience and advice
Mike D