willysmjeeps.com

I just obtained a gas tank but im not sure if it is an original or a repro. is there any really obvious way of telling? this tank has been painted a few times. I jumped on buying since it is pretty solid. I only have one picture at the moment but i can get more.

I believe Wes has a couple of photo comparisons on his photo
pages. Put it on. If everything lines up including the filler neck
and the rear bracket, and it fits under the seat with the webbing
or rubber 1/8" anti squeak under it, you've got a winner.

Thanks 4x4M38,
by looking at the picture, the only obvious difference is the way the neck is attached. I cant wait to get it to my jeep and see how well it fits!

Looks like everything is on the exterior including the two wire
clips. I am assuming that is tape over the fuel sender opening?

yes, it is some heavy tape, the neck also had tape on it when i bought it.

Question for the board.

Are the two wire clips supposed to be tacked at both ends
or only one side?

One side.

got the filter off and here are the pictures of the inside if anyone is interested.

I've seen much worse.

4x4M38 wrote:I've seen much worse.

Yeah, I've got one of those 'much worse' ones!

Aaron,
Plenty ideas here on how to tackle a tank all the way up to cutting
out bad sheet and putting new in.

That is the worst case scenario, but unless the complete
frame is gone I believe the do census is you are better off
repairing an original versus doing what it takes to make a repop
work.

I own both repro and original. A big difference is in how the outer shell joins to the front and rear panels.
On a repro if you look at the flange that overhangs the front or rear panel you can easily see the edges of the two pieces of sheet metal. Sealing is done by a continuous weld around the outside. It's all very neat and tidy.

On an original the sheetmetal pieces are folded over each other tightly and then soldered. You cannot see the sheetmetal edge of either the outer shell or the front or rear panel. The soldering is not a precision operation. There are occasional blobs.

Also on an original the filler neck flange is soldered to the tank. Yours has a similar flange as original on the filler neck. My repro tank filler neck does not have a flange. It's just soldered directly to the tank.

Your tank will clean up well. Some of my 5gal cans have been cleaned with a long soak of Apple cider vinegar. You will want to check vinegar compatibility with the tin coated steel though.

My tank is mainly rusted through on the bottom (all over) and the one seam on the bottom side.

That is a very repairable fuel tank.