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I need to replace my m38a1 rear bumper cross member. It's easy enough, but i am stuck on the hardware. I know you could use bolts, but to stay accurate you need to hot rivet it back. Well.. i don't hot rivet, or know of a blacksmith around either. What is the best way to keep the installation hardware accurate ? I did read on classic cars, some guys will use a rivet, but weld the back instead of hot riveting it. Was also thinking of just cutting the rotten middle out and welding in a whole new center, that way i am preserving the wings and the rivets. All my damage is from middle high to bottom of the cross member.

Sounds like you have a set of torches. Ues them to heat the rivet and pound it out with two hammers one holding it in as an anvil the other doing the pounding.

I don't have torch, and not sure I can get access to one. Was tempted to do what you said, but with an air hammer. Just not sure it wouldork well.

Hey Saberr, you can check on Page 4 of my build to see how I approached the task.

To make the rivets I took washers, filled them with weld and then dressed with a grinder.











Turned out pretty good if i do say so myself. Hope this helps!

I cut the rivets, put them in place and welded the inside where you couldn't really see it. Turned out well for me, they look factory. Just my 2 cents.

Bobber, that what the classic car forums said, and it makes sense. That way you still have the strengthish of the rivet going through both pieces. Sure its not as good as hot rivet, because that way its fills all, but still allows for movement.

I got rivets from Midwest Military. Best to buy whole rear crossmember kit from John but he was kind enough to sell me the rivets alone. I bought a oxygen and propane bottle from local Canadian Tire and heated the rivets orange/yellow and set them in place with air hammer and anvil.

https://1952m38cdn.wordpress.com/2015/0 ... installed/

A lot of work but the result gives authentic look and rivets are tight.

You gotta move fast as heat dissipates once rivet is in place.

John

Wait, so a propane torch will work ? Guess it makes sense, use it to red hot bolts to take them off.....

Don't overlook a Mapp gas torch. Also you should be able to borrow or rent an Oxy-acetylene rig reasonably.

Yes I used MAPP and it was just hot enough. Speed to set is the key. It is ideally a 2 man job.

John

I don't have an oxy acetylene set. Checked on bottles and
gas alone and just to get started is pushing 300 bucks.

Can I use Mapps for moving sheetmetal around? Does
it get hot enough to heat to cherry?

Wes, please move to a separate post if necessary.

Mapps only claims the ability to braze. However I can heat most light metals fusion hot. If you are going to tackle steel frame and steel body restoration it stands to reason that one must buy into at least oxy/acetylene. Bottle rentals and welding sets are not priced that high.