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In preparation for painting the engine i have been stripping components slowly to be cations of not disturbing the timing as this engine was running when pulled. Can the distributor be pulled and put back in without disturbing timing if I keep the clamp tight but remove the bolt holding the plate against the block? If so, will the distributor just pull out after removal bolt highlighted in red?

Yep - you got it in one.

Unless the red bolt is in a slot too - then you'll have to remember exactly where it was when you took it out. Take a photo. Or two. Or three.

Thanks Charles.

No prob..what part of the world are you in..?

Cambridge Ontario

Just saw that you are 30 min north of me in Maryhill. That's awesome

The red bolt only retains the distributor downward. The pinch bolt is loosed when you wish to adjust timing within the limited range available.

To remove the distributor while limiting the impact of the disturbment just remove the red bolt and lift the distributor out of the hole. This sounds easy but over the years the folks that don't know what they are doing have often preceded you and managed to install the distributor housing without a coating of anti-seize. This results in the distributor's aluminum body seizing to the cast iron block. In this case it often ends in the destruction of the distributor to remove it. Especially if one lacks patience.

If your distributor appears to be stuck then be patient. Soak it daily with a strong penetrant. Each day try rotating the distributor housing left and right . They will usually finally break loose. If it remains stubborn then heating the cast iron with a torch and then suddenly cooling the distributor housing only with a blast of something cold IE CO2 while prying it upwards will free it.

The distributor shaft has an anti-rattle spring at the bottom end. make sure it came out with the distributor.


This is the military distributor. Your distributor has the pinch bolt instead of the bolt going up through the plate into the bottom side of the distributor.

If you do not disturb the crank & cam positions you can reinstall the distributor (which only will go completely in in one position) without upsetting the timing setting. The tang at the bottom of the distributor shaft is slightly offset.


Again this is the military distributor so the bolt in the slot is the pinch bolt on yours.


Here you can see the same offset to the female slot in the oil pump that the distributor must slip into.

Thanks Wes. After trying to remove and finding it quite tight I hit it with penetrating oil and left it for the day. I will work it out slowly through the week. I suspected the distributor was stuck in the hole and I should not be over anxious to get it out.

I've had all of the above. One was rusted absolutley solid. The block was leaking directly over it for many years. That one I drilled out. A bad experience. After soaking it etc., be careful because the distributor body is also cast. It will break off where it meets the stub going into the block. Wedging screwdrivers together etc. at the plate will help pry it up . Some guys put a ring gear hose clamp on the body and tap on the clamp to jar it loose. If you can get it to move, you have won. Then soak the crap out of it and gently work it back and forth and up. Good luck, best wishes. John

Thanks John. Appreciate the advise

Brad -Did you get my private message?

charlesfitton wrote:Brad -Did you get my private message?

Yes Charles. I will call you later this week and try and get together on a nice day.
Brad

and I was able to start getting the distributor out. I won't fully pull it out until I get the fibre gear back on in correct position and #1 at TDC. Thanks for all the input. Looks like the T40pepenetrating oil worked to free it up.

It should not matter which position the dist is in...probably just gunked up...patience is the key.

Soak and wiggle


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T 40 ?????? What kind is this? I've used Kroil, PB Blaster, Freez off, Diesel Fuel, but never heard of T 40. John

oilleaker1 wrote:T 40 ?????? What kind is this? I've used Kroil, PB Blaster, Freez off, Diesel Fuel, but never heard of T 40. John

T40 is a Krown product. Not sold in general stores. I pick mine up from a diesel mechanic that buys them by the case but Ihere some Krown under proofing shops will sell it.
Best penetrating oil I have used.